Pulled out my old travel diaries the other day and came across one where we visited Hawaii, the big island made good reading. Big island of Hawaii jan 1998
The weather has changed once again, becoming wetter, with quite a few thunderstorms. This has forced us indoors, doing jobs that have been put off for quite awhile.
Judith has been sorting all the photo albums out, checking that all the photos are in the correct chronological order. Not an easy task. Fortunately we have kept a note of the trips away, the places visited, often with the associated costs including flight tickets and diaries. The latter are quite dog eared, some are fading fast, most written in pencil. Little books that capture the day to day activities as we travel the various parts of the globe. Decided it may be good to take a snapshot, type it out and attach it to the appropriate photo album. Reliving some of the experiences has been quite a revelation. Scanned a few of the photos, again these are quite old, but they add flavour to the written memories. This one of our trips to the Big Island of Hawaii, walking the volcanoes.
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| Tent, which we still have.lifetime guarantee. A terra nova. Positioned under the shade of a tree, next to a table and bbq. |
Arrive back at the campsite and The surf is up, massive waves rolling in across the Pacific. Talked to the park warden who told us that the condition was being monitored, supposedly there had been an earthquake in Peru and they were expecting repercussions, what ever that meant.
Into our swimming gear and headed down to the hidden beach and tried our body surfing, heavy going. The breakers were so powerful, flinging us about like flotsam.
Then back for a drink. Chattered to other campers who were discussing the storm that was possibly going to hit Hawaii. By the time Judith was ready for bed she’d worked herself into a right frenzy. The thought of a tsunami about to hit and wash us out to sea, sleep for her was a distant dream. Although she was snoring a great deal for someone who was wide-awake. Up early at 7 am and I had a cold shower and then packed up.
An old lady who was camping nearby dived into our spot even before we had moved. You know the type, the grass is greener.
Good to be leaving and it will be nice to try and find some peace and quiet after the frenetic atmosphere of Spencer Beach and the annual influx of snow birds from Alaska.
First over to Wiamea and McDonald’s breakfast with coffee. Then up towards Hilo stopping off at the Laupahoehoe point beach. A gorgeous place with a dark and sad past. After an earthquake in Alaska’s Aelutian Islands in 1946, a tsunami hit the Big Island destroying much of Hilo killing 159 people, including 21 schoolchildren and three teachers in Laupahoehoe.
Accounts recorded that the young students collected fish deposited from the huge, second wave on the school grounds while the teachers were in their cabin changing back into dry clothes when the final huge and deadly wave hit (estimated at 56 feet high moving 490 mph.)
At the mouth of the gorge it was calm and serene, until you got out of the car and listen to the roar of the surf hitting the rocky shore.
Onwards towards Hilo along the old road which was very picturesque yet very bumpy. Headed out towards Pahoe, the old hippy community of the great unwashed, then onwards to the SE of the island. First stop, the hot pool at Kapoho tidal pools with water temperatures of 80/90 degrees. Cookingly hot. Had lunch whilst drying off in the sun.
Along the coast , past the mangrove shrubs and freshwater pools to a little harbour, full of activity, fishing boats, sunbathers, smoking bbqs, laden with fresh fish. Divers fully kitted out in their sub Aqua gear, walking out to sea. A restaurant, more of a shack, bursting at the seams with happy eaters. The sweet smells of barbecued fish wafting our way .
Further along the coast we drove through thick rainforest that ran down to beaches of black sand.
Eventually we saw a massive plume of steam in the distance. Before we knew it we came to an abrupt halt, with a massive lava field blocking our passage. 15ft wall of black lava. This was the latest flow that demolished a whole estate of houses back in 1990. We climbed to the top of the lava to look at the steam spout. A carpet of lava spread out before us, l say carpet, it was more a consistency of custard but with the cracks that seemed to delve down to the centre of the Earth.
On route to our camp for the night at the volcano national park we see a helicopter dropping water on a bush fire. Not that we realised it at the time. It was only when we came across the helicopter, fire engines and water tankers blocking our route in the centre of the road. A smiling local police officer explained it was a bush fire, and they were preparing to evacuate the area. Exciting stuff. Fortunately they managed to get it under control. Found the camp site and set up. We seemed to have it to ourselves, but we have to wait and see. But presently it was nice and peaceful.
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| God you look young Parker. 18 going on 47. |
It was still early so we decided to drive up to the national park office, collected all the leaflets & tracking maps, chattered to the park warden and as it was still light, decided to drive round the main crater. It was a sight that is beyond belief and explanation.
Back for tea, chat and in bed by 8 pm. Cold compared to the beach in fact very cold. There is a hotel up here with proper log fires, such a change to the baking heat of the coastal areas, we’re you cook at night.
Up early after a poor nights sleep, washed and down to the visitor centre.
Walked the smaller tracks thorough and around the volcano house, which is in effect the hotel, about 3 miles in total. Sulphur steam spouts gurgling with rainforest in the background, such a contrast. Back at the visitor centre we have a salad lunch, then walked to Kilauea Iki overlook in preparation for the four hour rangers walk at 1:30. Unfortunately he was sick so we did it by ourselves.
Down through the rainforest with the sound of a dozen different bird songs, zigzagging through dense vegetation, wild orchids, different variety of ferns some of which can only be found in Hawaii. Eventually we reached the basin floor. It used to be over 500 feet deep but it is now only 300 feet since the lava from Halimaumau poured out into it back in 1974.
The whole surface was relatively flat, with odd mounds bursting with steam volcanic gases. The heat was intense out in the open with the full force of the day’s sun bearing down upon us. After about 1 1/2 miles two large mounds rose up on either side of the trail. Gigantic sheets of lava, balanced precariously, stacked like playing cards. Then the climb up through more rainforest and out onto the Byron ledge trail. But it wasn’t long before we climbed down into the main crater which they called the caldera. This was a massive 3 miles long by 2 miles wide and 500 foot deep chasm, blindingly bright under the baking sun. Then through an area that shows signs of the recent earthquake with sink holes and earth cracks . The shelter from the rainforest gave some rest bite as we climbed up hill towards the visitor centre. It had been a great walk, very interesting. A walk through a variety of terrain and lava forms. Including a visit to a lava tube.
After cooling down with a glass of ice cold coke, (fortunately the Americans always have an abundance of ice) it was down to the end of the chain of craters road to sea the lava flow pour into the sea.
It was a most powerful sight, plumes of steam shooting high into the sky and forming a bank of clouds made up of hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid and strands of glass along with the odd bolder or two. A real spectacle. Needed more time and more importantly extra equipment if we were going to get a closer look. So it was put on hold for the time being. We left once we had seen the bright red dots , high up on the mountain side. These were glimpses of the bright red molten lava, only visible due to the collapse of lava tubes. A torrent of red thundering down the mountain side through its self made tunnels and into the sea.
Once back at the visitor centre, we went through the detailed procedure of signing up for a back Country walk and an overnight stop at the Napau crater one of the nearest points to the Puu oo volcano, the source of the present eruptions.
The Ranger explained that this area was exceedingly volatile at present and it was imperative to monitor peoples whereabouts in case of the necessity for a helicopter uplift. Something which they had to do only a few weeks previous.
This of course gave Judith great confidence in our forthcoming trip.
The following morning we packed up the tent and organised our equipment, but more importantly our water supplies for our excursion. Three litres per person per day. God the weight was immense, no room for luxuries such as food.
Checked in with the park ranger to make sure there wasn’t any problems with the Naipaul crater backcountry campsite. From all accounts everything was okay. After all, the most recent flow was only 3miles away from our overnight stay.
Headed off in the car to the Manor Lulu carpark, Judith’s idea was very straightforward, if we left early enough we could complete the trek out and the 7 mile return before it became dark.
Even parking the car became a trauma. Where did the walk start from, even though I pointed to the gate section of the road it took some time to convince Judith we were on the right track. Eventually we agreed and set out for our adventure.
You are immediately into lava, the first mile skirts around the perimeter of an old lava field that still has vegetation growing on it. After which we hit a five mile section of proper lava, a sea of thick undulating ribbons, flowing. A sea of black and grey lava, waves that have suddenly solidified. Large cracks had opened up no more than 9 inches wide but they dived down into the earths crust and beyond into a black void of seemingly nothingness.
The route was marked by cairns, but nevertheless the undulations made it difficult to follow as you zigzag from left to right. After an hour and 30 minutes we walked over a steaming mass of rocks, some red, others pure yellow from the sulphur deposits. At this point you had to take care as we walked on lava tubes that could suddenly crack and collapse into the abyss below.
Once we had manovered gingerly over this area, we felt safe and relieved to see the edge of the rainforest just over the bluff. A respite from the intense heat. Quite unexpectedly the Cairns suddenly took a sharp turn away from the forest and back into the lava field. It was like walking through fire.
Eventually we came across a crater of enormous proportions, at least 500 ft deep with vertical cliff sides, topped with rampant vegetation on two sides. A volcano that had imploded. We kept well clear of the rim, the effect of erosion and undercutting was quite visible. At the base of the void, steam percolated through the earths crust at irregular intervals. It was a scene from Jurassic Park, albeit without the dinosaurs.
We entered the thick overgrown canopy of the rain forest. On either side of the trail the undergrowth was so dense, nothing could penetrate, obliterating any views of the caldera. On the odd occasion, a slim tantalising glimpse could be experienced, presumably due to a cliff fall. A deep depression into oblivion, which had engulfed all that at one time had been embedded on the surface. Bird’s sang incessantly, yet none could be observed through the dense forest canopy. At least it gave us some protection from the sun.
The weight of the rucksack didn’t help, especially as it was full of water. Well not all water, a few litres of diet Coke, Judith doesn’t like water.
Yet on a couple of occasions she was more than happy to drink the water as it was chilled and we were definitely in need. Our bodies were leaking at a tremendous rate. As an added benefit the more we drank the more comfortable it became for me. My pack was becoming lighter by the mile.
Eventually we came to the fork in the path. Our fork headed us straight on for a further 2 miles towards our bed for the night.
Onwards we walked, suddenly out of the blue we saw a massive construction, very basic, made from lava rocks but intricate in design. Obviously a temple of some kind.
In fact, no, it was a factory for processing shoots from the ferns. These were then exported for pillow filling, which supposedly could last for up to 30 years. Why out here?
A little further on we came to the campsite. A maximum of six places had been cut into the shrub. As we were the only campers we had the choice of any of the six positions. We therefore took the obligatory 30 minutes to choose the correct site, one with a view of the volcano spout in the distance. It had to be level, free of debris, far enough away from the rim of the crater in case of a collapse, pointing away from the direction of the wind and the sulphur fumes.
At this point Judith was still not convinced that this was a good idea, especially as we would be alone. The time for a decision came and went. I’d suggested 3 pm return deadline to enable us to get back before dark. it would’ve been impossible to navigate our way across the lava field in the dark even with torches. 4 pm and Judith was still unsettled.
Went off for a walk by myself. Initially we had taken the viewpoint trail to the lookout. The Makaopuli crater was amazing, but what lay in front of us was a window upon another world. A crater that seemed to be at least 2 miles wide and 3 miles long loomed to meet us. The shear cliff walls fell away vertically for between 500/800 feet. On the horizon the massive Puu oo. The cone now devistated by the 97 eruption was still pouring molten magma over the surface and down into the sea.
I had left the rainforest and stumbled upon an old trail through a lava forest. It had an eerie feel about it, a place where the Greek god Medusa had turned men into stone with just one look. Eventually l came to the rim of the crater. The path gingerly snaked its way down to the crater floor, cairns directed you across the vast open space towards the gap at the far end and the mouth of the Puu oo vent.
This was no longer an option. Since the 97 eruption, a large seam had opened from the mouth to the base of the shear Cliff. A fountain of Molten lava oozed through this, an incessant upsurge of molten magma at over 2000F. It had not gone away. As we soon were to see as it became dark. Red veins glowed under a thin crust of lava, spreading out in all directions from the main seam. Definitely not a healthy place to walk, especially when you consider that a slight earthquake could release the pressure in a matter of seconds. And this area encounters on average a 1000 earthquakes per year.
Returned back to camp and Judith was happier, she had heard voices. But it was short lived, as the couple headed off in another direction. It was now definitely too late to return, so we set up camp, making a makeshift seat to look out at the volcano.
Judith was transfixed on a plume of smoke and the clouds of noxious gasses above the vent not a million miles from us. More importantly the wind direction. This complex cocktail of noxious gases was heading our way. The Ranger had explained that at 3 miles away, they would have risen too high to effect us. But Judith was convinced we would not be able to breath. Panic was setting in.
Then out of the blue, as if sent by my guardian angel, Frank arrived. A tall young Swiss boy, who we later learnt was working in California for Hewlett Packard.
Judith now relaxed. Someone else would die with us.
Another way to look at it, now there were three people in two parties, the Park Rangers would feel obliged to rescue us if things heated up, in more ways than one.
Great guy, showed him around and down to the edge, but unfortunately the clouds had started to cover the Puu oo vent.
We talked and chattered back in camp, Judith being totally relaxed now. Suddenly on looking up, we saw the beautiful outline of a silent, yet sleek body of an owl, with its large head moving majestically from side to side. There was no shortage of food for this king of birds. We had been warned by a girl who had stayed on this site previously that it was infested with mice, and you needed to string all your equipment, especially the food off the ground.
She wasn’t kidding. They were all over our fly sheet, climbing over the top of us. Had to keep knocking them off.
Frank was up at 3am, but it was still too cloudy. We had agreed to knock one another up if the view had cleared. We were out at 4am, still cloud.
Then again at 6am, but still cloaked in cloud.
We ate a breakfast of noodles and onions, after which l took Judith and Frank to see the lava tree forest and the crater rim. Then whilst packing to return, the whole volcano came into view. The clouds had just disappeared. The Hawaiian gods had taken pity on us, they were in favour of our trip.
After awhile, a few photos and lots of wonderment behind us we headed out, this time on a different route, the sea path, and then hitchhike back to the car.
We walked through a wonderful rainforest, bumping into a large red eyed pheasant. Then onto the lava field with a totally different type of lava to that which we had crossed the previous day. Intriguing stuff, especially when you stumble across a section of road that has been taken back by the lava and reinstated into the wilderness once again. The only tell tale signs are the odd central line markings in tact, but only a few yards and once again its obliterated by a black velvet carpet, wrinkled like an old mans chin when he laughs. After about 51/2 miles we eventually came to the road after an easier day trek than the previous day. Waited at the lookout in the hope of a lift. A truck turned up, unfortunately going in the wrong direction and three cool dudes jumped out, all togged up in the appropriate beach bum attire. Cat eye sunglasses, base ball cap worn back to front, jaded and washed out tea shirt, shorts and sneakers.
It didn’t take long for us to get talking. One of the lads was the early duty manager at the Four Seasons beach resort, one of the most expensive hotels on the big island. It just goes to show, you can’t always go by first impressions. He gave us his card and invited us to visit the hotel and have breakfast with him.
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| Killer whales only 10m off shore |
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