Delays, postponements, but eventually after a nervous wait we head off to the sun

After our first taste of cruising since lockdown over Christmas, we couldn’t wait to get away again. Caribbean here we come, although a month out they decided to cut short the trip by eight days. Operational difficulties. Cruise speak for covid out breaks. From all accounts it was the problem of getting staff from overseas to man the ship.

Nevertheless on the 27th February we headed south. In some respects we felt guilty, what with the antics of Putin and the unfolding invasion of Ukraine. Off to enjoy our life as peoples homes and lives are shattered by a modern day Hitler.

Suddenly unspeakable things that our parents and grandparents lived through, injustices that we only read about in our history books seemed to be reemerging.

With such dramatic happenings, doing anything that makes you happy can feel totally out of place. But small snippets of enjoyment have gotten people through difficult times throughout history. So l am going to support the Ukrainian cause in anyway possible, but l am not going to feel guilty about enjoying this cruising experience.

When the problems of the world seem huge, we need to embrace the small things. We adapt and overcome. The human race is nothing if not resilient.

Moving on……

After a good nights rest at the Premier Inn we headed down to the Port. A murky damp day. Stopped off at the supermarket for fuel and topped the tank up. We weren’t sure how high the prices would get whilst we were away. They were already seeing the effects of oil shortages and now the Russians are facing sanctions the prices may become incredibly high. 

Boarding was straight forward after we had been tested negative excitement had started to rise. You always have the thought in the back of your mind that something could go wrong. Paperwork not completed, cruise cancelled, testing positive. It’s only once you walk onto the ship that   you can allow yourself to relax and enjoy the experience. 

The Aurora is a small old ship, built in 2000, but it has charm. A bit like an old lady that has a little too much makeup on to coverup the imperfections. Staff very pleasant, but most are not familiar with the process or layout of the ship. It will come with time.

Seem to be the only ones on deck to watch it sail out of Southampton 

Heading out from Southampton 

Had a few days to get used to the runnings of the ship. It definitely wasn’t slick like the Iona. Hopefully as time passes the staff will become more accustomed to the operation. The restaurants seemed to be the worst affected. Staff were running around like headless chicken. 

Had a few lectures, walked on the deck quite a bit, especially as the weather was surprisingly kind to us.

First port of call Funchal in Madeira. Glorious sunshine, off the ship and head on foot up the coast, past Reid’s hotel. Popped in to have a nose about. Typical colonial style, oozing wealth and an an atmosphere of peace and tranquillity. The smell of old pound notes hung in the air.

That’s what you call a swimming complex, looking out over the deep blue waters

Headed back in to the town, stopping off for a gorgeous coffee and their famous Portuguese custard tart. Found an interesting supermarket hidden away under the shopping mall. Had a good selection of local wines. Checked them out on my Vivino app. You just photograph the label and it tells you how it rates out of 5 and what you would expect to pay for it in the U.K. Bought a bottle of Adega de Pegoes that looked good. Price in U.K., £13, price in Euros €3.50. Can’t be bad. It was delicious. Should have bought half a dozen bottles.

Stocked up with crisps and nibbles for our early evening in cabin drink in preparation for the Atlantic crossing. Next stop Barbados.

Walk back to the ship through the botanical gardens with it profusion of flowers, absolutely gorgeous, and the smells, so heady and fragrant.

The wonderful exotic bird of paradise flower. Such a profusion of them around the garden, they seem to grow like weeds. startlingly beautiful.

This became the norm as we manoeuvred around the ship. 

Relaxed stroll around the deck after dinner

Formal night, although with covid restrictions it was quite reserved. Especially as a good proportion of the guest we’re self isolating from all accounts.

As the days pass everything starts to go awry.

My diary entry emphasises my concern on the day before arriving into Barbados.

(Must say very dissatisfied with the communication from the captain. Especially regarding the Covid outbreaks and the implications to our cruise. Whispers abound and many say that the cabins allocated to isolate guests are already full, with people now having to isolate in their own cabins. Who knows what is fact. What l do notice is that the controls and preventative measures seem to be non-existent. Staff are not sterilising tables, there doesn’t seem to be regular cleaning of public areas, especially toilets. Had to contact reception at one point, the condition was disgusting, l have seen better in some third world countries. Many of the public toilets have been out of commission for over two days. Chair sanitisers are virtually always empty. No one on duty at the entrance to the restaurant taking temperatures or ensuring that hands are sanitised. Even the ships senior personnel don’t wear their masks correctly. Judith had to tell the entertainment manager to pull his mask up over his nose. There just seemed a lack of policing.)

Arrived in Bridgetown, Barbados, but we couldn’t get off. At the time we didn’t know the reason. But it soon became apparent, especially as we watched waves of passengers being ferried over to the Victoria to start their isolation. 

It materialises that as we had well over the legal number of covid cases on board, presently set at 1% of total passengers, we weren’t allowed to get off into port. So offloading all the positive cases onto the Victoria enabled us to continue the cruise to the other islands on our itinerary.

Next stop St George’s, Grenada. Although the government will only allow passengers off the ship if you are booked on a tour.

We normally head ashore and make our own way around the islands, either walking or using local transport. But with the restrictions and having been on board for seven days, we opted for a local tour on one of the old wooden tram buses. We didn’t want to be crammed into a mini bus, so chose an island tour on a bus with open windows. Plenty of fresh air.

The local guide was one of the revolutionary leaders from the 1973 leadership movement. I didn’t  know a great deal about Grenada, other than the fact that the US sent forces in to put down a communist lead revolt. They even made a film featuring Clint Eastwood about the short lived invasion.

Turns out that Grenada, with the help of Cuba, had become a very prosperous country. Aid in the form of teachers, health professionals and construction workers were provided by Cuba. In four years, unemployment was cut from 49% to 14%, all children were given schooling and instead of advertising cigarettes or booze the colourful billboards promoted education. 

Unfortunately a internal struggle from a communist lead revolt took power, arresting the Prime Minister Maurice Bishop. The removal of Bishop led to demonstrations which grew to a point where Bishop was eventually freed.  Bishop and many of his followers  clashed with the army in the grounds of the fort with many civilians being killed.

Bishop, along with government ministers were lined up against a wall and executed by a firing squad. 

Our guide explained that he had fled with his family prior to being arrested, otherwise he would have been executed along with the other ministers.

It was at this point that the military junta took control of the government. Which in turn ignited the fears of communism and the subsequent brief invasion by the US. 

Looking around Grenada you could not see many signs of its past prosperity. Such a pity that it couldn’t have continued with its radical change under Bishop’s guidance. 

Our first port of call was the The Fort at St George, the old army headquarters. The site of the execution of Bishop and his government.

Amongst the decaying infrastructure lies a little gem of a shop that makes and sells what is reputed to be the finest chocolate in the world. And l must add, the most expensive. Needed a mortgage to buy the four bars. Why four bars you ask. Stocking up for a rainy day, and it was a bulk saver offer.

Traffic lights do not work anymore, it’s down to the local police to fill the gap.

The trip around the island was very enjoyable, so green and lush. As our guide pointed out. The earth is so fertile, you can spit onto the earth and it would grow. Most gardens were filled with mango and nutmeg trees. Which along with the cocoa bean and vanilla pod was now one of their major exports. 

Managed to buy both nutmeg in its original casing and fresh vanilla to bring back home, a real treat.

A day at sea and then, Curacao and the Dutch town of Willemstad. 

Local museum closed at present whilst they try and repair and restore after the storm. During covid everything came to a standstill. Looking very sad. 

Walked around the old town before heading over the bridge into the shopping district. You can see the effect of the previous storms and covid had taken its toll, as it has around the world.

Found an amazing hotel, restaurant and shop hugging the coast at the far end of town. A gorgeous coffee and a new designer bag in tow and we head back to the ship. The day has been humid with the odd sprinkling of rain to cool us down.

Next stop Oranjestad, Aruba.

Overcast day, but it was still pleasant as we headed through the shopping strip before heading out along the beach. Had a picnic lunch watching the

Crab’s scuttling through the mangroves. 

After a while we headed back inland before swinging off into town, eventually came across one of the main shopping streets that we had never discovered before. Not that the shops had anything that would spark our interest, most were either sports shoes or ladies silk dresses, oriental in style. But different to the rows and rows of duty free gifts on the main strip. Perhaps this was more for locals. 

Back on board for dinner, window seat for two. Rather be by ourselves at the moment, especially as we hear that we are missing out on a port of call due to another spike in covid cases.

All the isolation cabins are full, so we have to return to Barbados to offload the infected guests who will be going onto the Victoria.

Afterwards we get back on course and head for Tortola, albeit arriving late in the afternoon.

It materialised that we only had enough time to go to the duty free shops, buying some bbq sauce and checked the email on the free internet.

The sail into port was fascinating, plenty to see and keep us occupied until we berthed and we’re allowed to get off.

Seafront property for sale, featuring all the latest island technology,  ultra modern construction.

Fellow passengers watching us head into port. You can tell how many spend their days in the sun.

Another day, another port. Today it’s Philipsburg, St Maarten.

Off early before it gets too hot. Initially head towards the town, then walk along the promenade before strolling along the deserted beach. Most people stay next to the bars and shops, but we prefer to get away from the crowds. Not that it’s that busy at the moment.

Love the girls on the roof.

Back home after our trip into St Maarten. Must say that the shops were devoid of shoppers. In years prior to covid, the main shopping street would have been teaming with people off the boats. There have been many occasions when we have seen up to six super sized cruise ships in port at the same town. The shopkeepers look deflated. Hopefully once all the big ships return they will start getting back to normal.

Next day we arrive in St Johns, Antigua. Judith’s favourite place for buying rum. This time we have decided to test out the local bus service and head out to Nelson’s Dockyard. From all accounts the bus service is quite reliable. Fingers crossed.

As we head to the bus depot we are amazed to see that virtually all the shops are closed. It is Sunday, and Antigua is a very Christian island.

Did find a few mini markets open, so on our return we can get the rum.

Our luck is in, the bus is just about to leave. Hop on and enjoy the 30 minute ride which takes us through the town, past numerous church’s which seem to be filled to overflowing by locals in their Sunday best.

Then through the lush country side before heading onto the rather posh coastal town located on the other side of island.

After walking around the old buildings we head out to the perimeter defences and the armoury. Then along the costal walk before heading back. Bumped into a couple of young Americans who were taking the same path. Started chatting as you do. They were crew members off one of the big yachts, students working in the summer to make cash for university. Both were having a great time from all accounts, enjoying their work, although it was really hard going from all accounts. But must be fun to earn your uni funds by sailing around the Caribbean instead of working in Morrisons stacking shelves.

Then we bumped into another pair. A French couple. They had retired and sailed over from Europe in their yacht to tour all the islands in the Caribbean. They were into there third year, and enjoying every minute.  Although they did have a few near misses during rough weather. They had all suffered from seasickness, even their cat. A cat on a boat. Poor thing.

Dusty old path, sun burning down, but we shouldn’t complain. It’s beautiful.

Old powder room

Couldn’t find a bag big enough to take this home with us. 

Bus turned up, right on time. Amazing service. Headed back to St Johns, roads not so busy compared to earlier in the day and the church run.

Found a mini market and purchased 1.75L of local rum, all for 10 US dollars. When the sun comes out in Innellan, the rum punches will start flowing.

One on the best parts of cruising, watching the sail away with the sun going down, glass in hand. Chilled.

Awoke in Saint Lucia with the Queen Victoria alongside, Carnivals hospital/isolation ship. Guests were being moved between the two ships. More heading over, others returning back. Those going out seeming to outnumber those returning 4 to 1.

Mixed reports from those returning, some saying they were treated regally, free wine, complimentary Internet and excellent food. Others complaining that dietary requirements were not adhered to. One couple who needed to eat before six missing out on dinner because it was served between seven and nine. 

Wonder what compensation they will receive or if they will need to claim against their travel insurance. Be interesting to find out. Some are saying that carnival will give them a refund for all the days they are in isolation.

When you consider that on the P&O Iona during the Christmas cruise, as soon as they reached Spain all the infected people were offloaded into a hotel to self isolate at their own expense. Presumably the insurance would pick it up. Although we did hear that one insurance company didn’t pay for a partner who wasn’t infected. Chinese whispers once again. 

As we sit eating breakfast the captain comes over the tannoy to tell us that passengers can only get off if they have booked a trip or otherwise take a government-sponsored tour. Judith had originally arranged for us to catch a local bus, but this was scuppered. So we checked out the local tourist taxi service. They offered to take us to pigeon Island for $25 each way. So we went for it.

They dropped four other passengers off at the beach and then took us onto the park. They asked us to photo the individual taxi number painted on the side of the van. From all accounts this was so we could find it amongst the melee of taxis when they come to collect us. Should be fun. Still pessimistic that they will ever bother to return.

Eventually arrived at 11.30, paid the 10$ each and entered the park. An island with two massive peaks, topped with fortifications, positioned to guard against attack from the French in Martinique.

Many visitors had come for the beaches, although one had been cordoned of for the guest from the Windjammer. These guests were enjoying water sports, a bbq and entertainment from a steel band, and of course the prerequisite free bar. They all seemed to be lapping up the experience. Not sure if l would like cruising on such a small ship. But if you are island hopping, going into bays away from the big ships, could be interesting.

Headed up the peak, eventually manoeuvring up steep narrow steps to the gun battery, with super 360 degree views. Then onto the next peak before heading down for refreshments. 

Climbed the hill to the forts on the top overlooking the bays

Couple of snorkelers enjoying the clear waters

Two enormous rum punches for Judith and a few beers for me, relaxed, chilled and waiting for the taxi to return. 

Found a rickety bar run by a weather beaten old lady with a broad smile that reached from ear to ear and her daughter. Both cheery and happy to see us. Plonked ourselves down for a rum punch and a beer, followed by another, then another.

Met a local who had dropped in for his lunch, very chatty, as was the owners daughter who was wearing a cap displaying the colours of Ukraine. A massive floppy shower cap contraption, presumably for health and safety reasons whist cooking. It definitely wasn’t a fashion statement.

As we sat soaking up the atmosphere, expats turned up for a bucket of beers. A Mancunian accountant with two work colleagues. He explained it was a regular daily ritual. Finish work at 3.30 and head to the ladies bar for a few beers, chill out and relax. That’s what you call a great work life balance.

Refreshed and mellow, we headed back to the park to utilise their facilities before waiting for the returning taxi. Which to our surprise arrived spot on time for our return to the ship, and more food, drink and entertainment. What a great day out.

Back for an early dinner, then it’s a few circles of the deck before heading into the theatre. What a glorious evening. Our last night in the Caribbean, so the weather will be starting to deteriorate over the next six days. 

Unless we are lucky, and it stays dry and warm all the way to the Azores.

Our cricket team

On one of our walks around the ship, came across a game of cricket in the tennis courts. Looked great fun. One of the chaps invited me to join in, and the seed was sown. 

The last time l had played cricket was with my father on a beach on our annual holidays, me in shorts, three sticks for the wickets and a tennis ball. Must have been about six years old at the time.

At school it was soccer, rugby and tennis, never fancied having a hairy beefy chap throwing a solid leather ball at my middle stump. So it didn’t come high on my to do list. 

But this contained game of cricket proved tremendously enjoyable. Numbers varied, the most being two teams of 9. But normally we would play a round robin, each man or women playing for themselves. Tram lines determined the scoring. Back net a four and back net without bouncing a six. If you are caught or bowled out in your over it was minus five. Proper bat and stumps and a rubber ball that was the same size and weight as the traditional leather.

Every sea day we would meet for a game at 1.45 and played for around an hour. Everyone got to bat, bowl and act as a fielder. The latter being the most dangerous. Stopping or catching the balls resulted in bruised and knocked body parts.

My first outing went well, with a couple of fours the odd six, but my score was low due to being caught four times in the over. As days pass my eye and ability improved. Fell in love with it. 

Praia da Vitoria, Azores, rather overcast, but quite warm.

Arrived in the Azores early, breakfast and then catch the shuttle into the centre of Praia da Vitoria. We eventually found the local bus stop and waited for the No2 bus to Angra, the capital city. 

The journey took us through the fertile countryside. A chequerboard of fields, all fenced, with lush green crops sprouting vigorously amongst tropical trees and shrubs. Passing through small villages of rustic ancient whitewashed houses in the usual Portuguese mismatch style.

Eventually heading down hill into the compact city of Angra, passing the bullring on the outskirts before coming to a halt in the ancient square with its colourful buildings.

Headed through the narrow streets down to the harbour, with the backdrop of the famous Monte Brasil. A fortified defensive fort which now houses a Portuguese military unit. The sentry even saluted us as we passed by.

Headed round the bay, passed an immaculate beach. Two old boys had dustpans and brushes clearing up and unsightly detritus. Odd leaves, bit of seaweed, few cigarettes buts and the odd flotsam. Amazing.

Managed to climb most of the hill, although had to cut it short, the ankle was really playing up. The tablets were not numbing the Achilles pain.

But at least the bruising had come out and the swelling was coming down.

As Judith kept pointing out to me, if you try and play like a 16 year old, you have to be prepared to live with the consequences.  The day before we arrived in the Azores l took a full struck ball on the ankle in cricket. Shit!

Rested in a delightful bar come restaurant. Had a gigantic doughnut style cake and some truly magnificent coffee.

Took it gently back to collect the bus, via the botanical gardens and the historic centre. Popped into the local tourist office and found hundreds of walks in the area. Serious hill walking up in the mountains. 

Not enough time or fitness on this occasion, but would be well worth a revisit. Could cope with a couple of weeks enjoying the volcanic mountains. Hire a car and self catering villa. Only problem, getting here.

Cruise now over and we arrive in Southampton with the temperature down to freezing, albeit the sun is shining. Well at first, it soon changed as we drove to Ashford for our overnight stay before going over to France on the Euro Tunnel. We had rain, snow, high force winds. Welcome home.