Continue on the world cruise, moving away from Singapore and head to Thailand and Vietnam before returning to Singapore.
Presently trying to catchup with my diary. Each day l make notes and comments, take photos, but due to a mixture of time consuming activities it takes forever getting it posted on the net. So this portion started as we left Singapore for the first time and headed to Thailand. That was back on the 14 February, Valentine’s Day. It’s now 1st April and we are heading for Durban. So expect quite a lot in this issue.
We have had an influx of Singaporeans, who presumably booked to visit Hong Kong, but that was before the amendment to the schedule. So ultimately it turned into a party ship, a Chinese free for all. Nine nights of loud, unruly and ill mannered orientals who took over the tranquility of the QM2. Replacing it with a frenetic hum. Although Cunard benefited with a full Casino every day and night. Orientals love gambling.
Calmed down once they departed and the new influx of Brits boarded on the second visit. But the when they departed in Sydney we returned to a different type of disturbance. This time from an influx of Ozzies, taking advantage of ultra cheap prices for a cruise to Perth. Another nine nighter. Read on for more on our various interlopers to the world of cruising.
Bangkok - Pattaya
It’s Thailand and many hop onto coaches for the lengthy drive into Bangkok. 2 1/2 hours if they’re lucky. Although Sheila, our South African friend managed to get a taxi ready to meet her at the port. Whisking her away, managing to do the journey in a fraction of the time. She stayed at the Sheraton on the river overnight before being returned at the end of the following day. All for very little money. With hindsight, we should have joined her for the overnight trip.
Another time.
Our venture into Thailand was via the local Shuttle into Pattaya. The coastal town made famous during the Vietnam war, when it was the partying centre for the US troops.
Our rather dilapidated bus headed out through the docks, then takes the wrong turn onto the motorway. He then has to reverse 200m back to the junction.
Lorries scream by us at high speed, honking their horns as they pas on both sides. At any moment one of the big container lorries could hurtle into the back of us, and we are on the back seat. The meat between the bread. Gingerly he reverses back to the junction and crosses the motorway whilst all the inbound traffic grinds to a halt only inches away from our vulnerable belly of soft metal. Unbelievable.
It must be quite a common manoeuvre, no one seemed to be unduly worried, other than the passengers on board our coach who are this time sweating and praying in their seats.
We soon exit the port area onto the main urban drag towards Pattaya.
A mixture of Buddhist temples, dilapidated shops. punctuated with the odd field that has been allowed to go to seed. Possibly left fallow in preparation for another concrete monolith draped in electrical cables.
A sprawling mass of humanity. Little shrines on every forecourt with offerings spilling over the side.
Enormous portraits of the king in various poses straddle the highway. In some he’s wearing a cowboy hat, in others dressed in formal Thai costume bedecked in jewels, another with his harem of elegant female guards. Tales of his wealth and playboy antics abound. Sounds a real sleaze. Better be careful, people have been imprisoned for less.
Wall-to-wall bars along the seafront with lines of motorbikes and scooters all parked in front . By 10am the bars are full of old men with big beer bellies chatting up young Thai girls. There seem to be fast food joints every hundred yards along the strip. But on the other side of the road they were installing a new promenade with palm trees to give a little shade. Unfortunately not a enough. Its a baking hot, 34° and rising.
Fortunately it’s a dry heat, not very humid, and the fragrant aroma from the Frangipani flowers and trees in blossom seem to take your mind off the temperature.
Wall-to-wall people and its just 11 o’clock in the morning. Can you imagine what it’s gonna be like at 11 o’clock at night when all the bars are open and the clubs are starting their karaoke machines.
Up early, made a packed lunch of rolls with fried egg, bacon and Cumberland sausage coated in a little tomato ketchup, along with masses of water to keep us hydrated. Then we head back into town, jump off at the hotel and head directly to the mountains. I say mountains it’s in fact a hillock at the end of the beach which climbs quite steeply. But first we had to pass through the night street, which was in the process of being spruced up and replenished in preparation for this evenings revellers. A real den of iniquity. A place full of bars, sex shops, massage parlours of all types, Russian nude Dancers, Thai kickboxing. It just went on and on, a real street of depravity, smelling of urine and beer.
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Eventually we found the steps to take us up the hillside. Firstly to the lookout then to a platform with giant letters spelling out Pattaya. Presumably copied from the famous Hollywood sign seen in all the movies.
Continue on up on crooked and uneven steps, passing dogs, sprawling out, comatose in the incessant heat. Until eventually we reach the pinnacle and a temple, another opportunity for people to sell all the tacky tourist stuff. But more importantly a comfort stop for me.
Onwards an upwards to our final point of call and the massive Buddha. Judith had to quickly borrow a sarong to cover her legs before climbing the steps to the foot of the God.
From a distance the beach and sea look inviting, yet we have been warned off going into the sea by our tour guide. Too many floating things you wouldn’t want to encounter.
It’s not so much is going in for a swim is going through the motions.
Transport in Bemos converted flatbeds with seating for 10 big or 14 small people plus a couple perilously clinging on to the back whilst astride the running board.
It was now midday and the temperature had risen dramatically. So we make our way in the shade as much as possible, down back to the sea front. Stopping at a 7-Eleven for a Magnum ice cream, just the ticket. Nearly had a second, but that would have been greedy.
Then onwards until we could find a seat and dive into our backpacks for our packed lunch, washed down with plenty of chilled flavoured water. Luxuriant.
Back to the hotel to collect the shuttle for our ride home through the motorbikes, lorries and motorised rickshaws. It’s madness. So pleased to escape into the closeted sanctuary of our home from home.
Another port, this time in Vietnam.
Up early and off on the Vung Tau Views tour. Decided to do this because it required the least amount of coach travel.
No hot water in the shower this morning or last night, so that put me in a really brilliant mood, not. I don’t mind cold water to finish off after a boiling hot one, but not just cold water. Too much of a shock awakening.
Grumpy old bugger. The uttering from my sympathetic wife, albeit true. It’s amazing how small things can corrupt your day.
But had a great breakfast, so that put a smile back on my face. Food seems to have that effect on me. Then headed out for the trip. Can’t fault the tour team, everything went smoothly, even with the immigration process on board by the smartly uniformed Vietnamese guards. A bit of a jolly for them, they joined the ship in Thailand. So they had two days to enjoy the comforts of the QM2.
Whilst boarding the coach a German woman caused an almighty commotion. Two elderly infirm with walking sticks had been directed to sit at the front which she’d supposedly reserved. Upsetting for the couple to say the least.
She stood all in black, straight backed, pointing at the poor couple, and told them quite forcibly to move.
Shouting at her partner “to get the girl” the Cunard guide. She stood glowering at the couple, like a third Reich SS officer.
Eventually the Cunard lady, established calm, informed the lady to sit down, explaining that the couple didn’t deserve shouting at, whilst ascertaining that this obnoxious women had in fact reserved the front seat.
Quickly moved a single lady, and assisted the couple into her seat, fortunately only one seat back, so easy enough for access.
She then offered the front seat to the women in black, with attitude.
Can’t imagine how she managed to book the front seat. She carried a stick, but once off the coach she was running around like a greyhound on steroids. Can only imagine she was one of the big spenders from the Queens Grill suites who would have paid megabucks for the privilege. As l often mention, money doesn’t automatically guarantee good manners.
The first thing you notice as you drive along the narrow straight dual carriageways are the number of motor bikes. They are like swarms of bees around a honey pot. Our guide tells us that 87% of households own a motorbike, approximately 50 million bikes.
Wonder what will happen once they become more affluent and start buying cars. There will be a total grid lock with fumes polluting the cities, would be unbearable.
We make our first stop at the local market where everything is for sale, from basic home goods and cloths to food provisions.
Guide implores us to be back within 15 minutes. It seems we have a very hectic schedule.
Take the opportunity to use the basic yet spotlessly clean toilets. They didn’t smell, even though there wasn’t any running water or mechanised flushing system. Instead they had an enormous tank of water and a little wooden ladle to scoop it up, which is then used to flush everything away.
On the sides of the roads, street venders sold their wares, flowers, spices, fruit, vegetables, raw and live poultry.
Inside the covered market they were busy organising the lunch. Cooking on charcoal burners. Cheery little old ladies, all smiling and chatting away ten to the dozen. Most with toothless grins. Not sure whether l would be brave enough to sample the food on offer. Maybe the vegetarian options, especially after seeing the raw chickens being portioned out on the pavement.
Visited the whale temple, but the bones were missing today, but back tomorrow once we have gone. Not sure if they had actually been removed. More than likely it was lost in translation. Seems that the curator had been called to a meeting, and perhaps he was the one who had the keys to open the display. So it was a quick stop, and then off within 15 minutes.
Feels like we are on a hop on hop off bus, rushing from attraction to the next at break necked speed.
The statue of Christ, one of the highlights of the tour. The Jesus statue located overlooking Vung Tau City is similar to that in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Built by the United States in 1971 during the Vietnam War. The guide explained that it was just a quick photo opportunity, yet from the car park you could only see half his head. Told me it would take at least an hour to get to the top and back. He was obviously basing this time on the older passengers abilities. He was only offering 15 minutes, but managed to squeeze him to allow us 25. Just enough for me to climb the 1500 steps to the top and back. Well worthwhile.
Then onto our last stop, the kings mansion, Bach Dinh, latterly used by the French governor. You can certainly see the French influence throughout.
The windows are similar to those still made in France today, although these are made of very strong wood to be resistant to termites as are all the wood fittings, furniture and doors within the house.
It has the feel of a rustic Chateau, plenty of space, high ceilings and shutters over the windows.
Second visit to Singapore, to drop of the nine nighters and collect mainly British who had flown out to meet the ship. Including our friends in France, and of course Jill and Chris who had flown from Perth.
We get off the ship early as we were meeting up with Chris and Jill from Australia. Head through immigration without any real problems. Having passed through on many occasions the process became totally automated.
Catch the shuttle to the mall. Before we took off I was certain I saw someone just like Chris board the coach. But it couldn’t be, the woman next to him was definitely not Jill.
But once everyone got up and started exiting the coach two people walked over to the mall and it was definitely Chris and jill. Unbelievable.
Swiftly ran over and caught up with them. Materialised that they had actually gone to the port and offloaded all of their bags and stored them ready for their boarding later on in the afternoon. Chris had noticed the QM2 shuttle going back to the mall and decided to jump on board, as you do.
Immediately dived to the Starbucks coffee shop. Two of our party, both Jill and Denise required a caffeine hit prior to any morning activity. But it enabled us to have a good chat and introduce Denise, our single Canadian walking buddy. Then off onto our tour over the helix bridge and down by the lagoon which was right next to the Singapore Grand Prix track.
Skirting under the Bridge by the lion fish and continued along the river.
It was starting to get warm so we headed towards the contemporary art gallery located next door to the courts. We soon learnt from looking at the signs that there was in fact a viewing Terrace. Took us awhile to determine that you had to use the lift. For some reason it was impregnable via the stairs. Perhaps being connected to the courts, they needed to control escape routes. Cameras were all over the place, but then again that’s normal in Singapore, it’s there to monitor bad behaviour. So under surveillance, we jumped into the lift and before we knew it we were looking out over the Raffles Hotel on one side and the old cricket pavilion on the other ,magnificent. And not another person in-sight. Makes such a change to escape the usual crowds found in the city. Eventually located an exit staircase into the gallery, emerging into the youth art centre, filled by masses of smart well behaved young school children. A tribute to the ethics of the governing system.
Once we’d had our fill of art we headed onto Fort Canning. Magnificent gardens and interpretation centre. Meandered through the various gardens and passed Raffles house with views over the city and then into the excellent interpretation centre. Halfway round the centre realise I’d left my hat on a seat in the park. Head off with little hope of finding my cap, but fifteen minutes later found it , sitting exactly were l had left it. Getting to like Singapore, and it’s ethics.
Meet back up with the crowd, only to be told we were heading back from whence l came.
And it’s time for lunch.
Meander back to the Mall and jump onto the shuttle for the ship.
Assist Chris & Jill with their cases, ready for boarding, getting them in line, and bumped into Richard & Sandra our friends from France. So another excuse to chat.
Smooth process through immigration, in fact they had been thoughtful enough to set a line especially for guests who would be eventually going back out to the world club party in the evening. Very efficient.
Unfortunately that wasn’t the case when we actually tried to go to the Gardens by the Bay world cruise party at 6 o’clock.
They had a technical problem which caused ultimately a backlog of passengers that in effect stalled 1000 passengers aboard the ship. They were held there for a minimum of an hour and for some, for as much as 2 hours. So much so, many of them decided not to even bother to go to the party.
We were some of the lucky ones who arrived at the function suite within the gardens only an hour and a half after the time that we should’ve got there.
Some interesting side shows, a Chinese person with fortune telling cards, another with a parakeet that chose a brick containing a forecast of your up and coming life, others were signing fans and chopsticks, whilst another stall produced lucky charms.
Music was being played in the entrance by three ladies in traditional Chinese or possibly Siamese costume. There was no shortage of waiters offering a selection of drinks including the local favourite, Singapore Sling.
But it wasn’t Cunard’s Finest Hour
What could have been superb was turned into a shambles due to poor management by the caterers and organisers on the ground. The food was excellent, if you managed to obtain any, which unfortunately many didn’t.
Most people complained about the immigration, but a technical hitch can happen at any time. Just unfortunate that it coincided with the departure of the 1000 world cruise guests going to the party. We were relatively lucky, others decided against going when the delay reached two hours.
The biggest problem was encountered within the venue. They only had two street food locations serving food. This was further compounded by the small tables and the inability for staff to reach anything other than those on the outer ring. The four rows on each side being impenetrable. 75% of the guests. Queue’s to the pop up venders meandered around the hall. Managed to procure some of the served canapés, as did Steve. So our party of eight perched on stools around a minute table were fed on a regular basis. But only because we were proactive.
Entertainment was again inspiring, although the noise was such that it was difficult to hear. But then again l am deaf and volumes of background noise causes me to switch off. Although the Chinese dragon and drummers got our attention, as did the Siamese dancers. Unfortunately the captain and presidents speeches disappeared into oblivion. But the highlight was when the park had been emptied of paying visitors and a high proportion of the world cruisers had returned to the ship. They opened up the flower dome for our personal viewing. Our group walked around un hindered, in fact l am not sure if more than a handful of guests ventured inside. It wasn’t promoted very well. But all the better for us.
Bali
26 Feb sea too rough to land in Bali, although the Indonesian immigration managed to successfully get off and the Australian Immigration to get on board the ship. Along with a few musicians and other crew members. Presume that the onus is on the Immigration department. Whereas the ship would be responsible for any accidents to guests. Obviously, they would err on the side of caution.
Materialised that guests who missed the ship in Singapore who flew out to Bali where unable to get on, they had to rebook and fly to Darwin. The jungle drums on board the ship reported that they had a problem with the paperwork in Singapore which stopped them being allowed into Singapore at the airport and therefore not on time to catch the ship as it departed. And all at their own expense, must’ve cost them a fortune.
Group of photos taken from the ship. The nearest we came to being in Bali.
Unfortunately, the clouds obscured the volcanoes we were due to visit.
Jill and I watched people getting on board in Darwin with masses of luggage. Which surprised her. Back in 2020 Jill had requested to join the ship in Darwin instead of Sydney and was told that was impossible. Presumably, it was the couple who missed the boat in Singapore. Under the circumstances, can imagine they would make an exception.
Our first venture into Darwin was into the main shopping precinct to look for aboriginal art for Judith’s collection. Darwin is fortunate to have quite a few shops that sell true authentic original art. Although we did find out later from an Aboriginal artist that certain shops sold reproduction pieces. A company employs a firm in Kashmir to reproduce certain patterns.
But we search thoroughly and eventually found a painting that took Judith’s eye. Also met an aboriginal artist who was a the Didgeridoo player at the commonwealth games.
He gave us a performance in the shop. Fantastic how they can breathe in and out whilst playing the instrument. Explained all about how the vibrations from the music can help destress and relax people. Proceeded to show Judith by allowing the music to roll over her, the vibrations bouncing off her body.
Fascinating. Seemed to work for a while.
Check out his web site, can’t say l like his paintings, but that’s all subjective. Just listen to his playing.
Second Day in port and we caught the local bus heading out to the museum and art gallery. After which we headed along the beach and up to Fanny Bay, next to Philip street before walking home from the Botanical Gardens.
Plenty of heat punctuated by heavy rain showers. Fortunately for us, we were never far away from some cover. Woolworths liquor store , a perfect stopping off point before getting back on the ship. Realistically the rain was short lived on all occasions, and you could see and feel it coming. So plenty of time to seek out cover.
Didn’t seem to halt the golfers out on the local course, or abate the drunken skirmishes of the local drunken Aboriginal’s.
Such a shame, they seem to have lost their way completely. No aim in life. But then again, we may only be seeing a very small percentage of the indigenous population. Unfortunately these drunken people are the ones that take front stage and form a lasting memory of these people.
An interesting factoid. Before the Europeans arrived there were between one and two million indigenous people before in 650 tribes.
As of 30 June 2021 there were 984,000 Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people, representing only 3.8% of the total Australian population.
We were held up from leaving due to a combination of high winds and a broken aerial. The former causing the latter.
We needed the use of a full time tug to keep us, that being the QM2 tight along the quay.
Must have cost a small fortune, 48 hours none stop pushing. The fuel alone must have been horrendous, not to mention the labour and hire charge. But not a lot when divided by 2500 passengers l suppose.
Darwin’s location makes it prone to cyclones and extreme weather. As we saw in the museum, with the dramatic account of the 1974 disaster. Cyclone Tracy killed 71 and devastated the city, levelling it to the ground with gusts up to 150mph. Definitely not a merry Christmas.
Eventually the aerial was replaced and we were able to leave, heading for Airily Beach.
So five hours late, in the early morning we made way. Not that l was aware of it. Awoke at 8am and expected to see us still in dock. Only to find us sailing through the Torres Straits passing in between Cape York and Papua New Guinea. Quite misty, so it was difficult to make out the headland and islands.
Good job we had a pilot who boarded in Darwin and stayed on till Brisbane. Especially as we only had a narrow passage, with only 4m of water under the hill of the ship. It’s a prerequisite for all seafaring vessels that transit through the great barrier reef to have a pilot. He was telling us, that every pilot is monitored via global mobile locators to ensure that his vessel doesn’t stray into dangerous areas.
It all happens on board.
The mother from the family from hell was having a breakdown at the pursers office in the main foyer. She was saying that “they”, the two children were running riot and trying to kill one another. Eventually one of the senior offices managed to calm her down.
We first encountered them late last year on the transatlantic crossing between Southampton and New York. They were next door to our friend Martin who gave us the low down on them. The parents who are exceedingly large were sharing an inside cabin with their two adult children, who were also quite overweight. The latter being in bunk beds. For some reason, they continually wedged their cabin door open, allowing everyone to see the disarray of their living conditions. Their general personal hygiene was perhaps not all it could be, especially as they tended to have most of their meals by room service. Trays would mount up both in and out of the cabin with leftovers spilling over. Causing unsavoury odours to linger within the hallway.
At night Martin would be continually awoken from his sleep by shouting and banging next door. So much so, that he eventually was moved away to a quieter cabin.
So it seems that the behaviour has not changed. Just transferred from one cruise to another.
The family in question seem to have got back together, although for how long, who knows. Will have to keep our eyes open for any further breakdowns, perhaps the odd person thrown overboard or fisticuffs at dawn. Keep your eyes open and camera handy.
We cruise to Airlie Beach through the Whitsunday Islands with our pilot on board,a necessity to navigate through the reefs safely. Notice on marine radar that we are not alone, three other ships are doing a similar route, albeit the Victoria is heading north , whilst the Celebrity Eclipse and the Royal Caribbean are heading south. Seems that they are all berthing at different parts of the mainland, presumably to ensure no one area is overwhelmed by an influx of tourists. Protecting the reef and the marine life of that area. Especially as some of these new ships carry over 5000 passengers.
We eventually reach our destination, Airlie Beach and myself, Chris and Jill head off on the tender for a mornings Kayaking. In fact, the group is made up of eight in total, split into four Kayaks. After some instruction and guidance we head off around three islands, stopping off at one for a bit of snorkelling.
That was fun, we had to get into a type of wet suite to protect ourselves from the box jellyfish. Not an attractive look.
Due to recent storms the water was a milky colour, eliminating any possibility of seeing sea creatures, be it fish, mammals or turtles, for which the area is famous. Did see a pair of ospreys. Hopefully they were capable of spying fish through the cloudy water and fulfil their basic hunger needs.
It was great to get back into a kayak, although rather alien to be in a two seater with rudder controls.
8 th March and we arrive in Brisbane.
Temperature is between 28 and 30° quite humid but no rain forecast. It’s good to be a little overcast, but it would be even better if we had a little wind. It was still and humid, quite heavy and oppressive.
Leave on the shuttle bus, a crowd of us, six in total, heading to Brisbane. Took approximately 35 minutes, so a lot quicker than anticipated.
Main objective was to have a good walk and go through the botanical gardens and along the river to the museum and art gallery, finishing up at the city hall gallery. Turned out basically to be a walk in the park to find the nearest coffee shop with chocolate doughnuts. Which ultimately didn’t materialise. The recent floods and subsequent water damage had closed a lot of the coffee shops, but we did eventually find one mobile dispenser along the river. Great coffee, but it wasn’t a doughnut shop although they filled Denise’s and Chris’s sugar rush by selling double chocolate cookies that seemed to fit the bill.
Then it was onto the big wheel, the Brisbane wheel. All but moi jumped on the ferris wheel for the 15 minutes journey. About five full circles of the car. I was the allotted photographer. Yet trying to fulfil that role was more difficult than it looked. By the time l recognised the inhabitants of the car, focussed the camera, they had disappeared.
From here it was a walk to the museum and gallery. But heads were already seeking more nourishment. So off we trot over the bridge, through an area of pop up street food, some looking totally inviting. The aromas were tantalising the taste buds and utterly mouth watering. Due to the length of the midday queues this was dismissed in favour of an air conditioned Macdonald’s.
It was at this point that l realised how muggy it was outside. The air conditioning was just a world changer. Totally refreshed us. Think the spicy chicken burger with chips helped a little bit.
So headed to the city hall, only to find that tours needed to be booked beforehand. What a bummer. At this point people went their separate ways, and we stayed within the museum and art gallery. So pleased we did, it was so interesting and wacky. Kept us amused for a good hour.
5am and the medical team are called to a cabin just up from us. We can hear people running along the corridor. Shortly afterwards the Captain comes on to advise that they have called for a medivac to uplift the patient. The second such helicopter evacuation in three days. Says something about the demographics of our passengers.
At least the last two were still alive when they left the ship. The other medical emergencies seemed to arrive too late. From gossip, it seems we have been losing at least one passenger per fortnight.
As you look at some of the elderly and morbidly obese manoeuvring around the ship, that figure seems quite optimistic.
Today is Australia Day on board. For lunch they filled the centre two buffets with all manner of confectionery goodies. Numerous gateau’s, mousses, chocolate truffles, doughnuts with various toppings and oodles of pastries. Within an hour it had been stripped, replenished and once again emptied.
Good job the pair of us don’t have sweet tooth’s. Although l have to admit that l couldn’t resit a salted caramel topped doughnut. It was delicious.
Back to the evacuation. The captain came back on and advised that the helicopter wouldn’t be with us for two hours. One hopes that this was due to the fact that the patient wasn’t at deaths door. Although it could be that the emergency services were already out on another call. We will never know. That is unless the captain gets feedback to say the guest is stable and on the way to a full recovery. Which has happened in the past on other ships.
First day in Sydney
Arrived in Sydney and moored up in the centre channel. Then off on tender to the Sydney opera house to start our walk along the coast with Chris & Jill.
Head out around circular Quay and over Sydney Harbour Bridge.
What a beautiful morning, plenty of sunshine, but a strong wind to keep the temperature fairly comfortable.
Get a glimpse of the QM2 in the distance from the top of the bridge. Walkers are overhead walking to the very top, all attached to the railings for their tour of a lifetime. But not mine. I would be shaking in my boots. Would fail on the first climb of the ladder to start the walk up the structure.
Below The Royal Caribbean has pride of place, moored up along side of the Rocks. The name given to the quayside buildings now converted to incorporate upmarket bars, restaurants and shops. Tomorrow the QM2 will take its place.
Chris has all the printed instructions, so he’s the tour leader today and he’s really good at it. Comes from years of finding his way to various destinations in his lorry.
Guides us on the 11 mile coastal walk up and down through Kirribilli, past the governors house and onto the Royal Sydney yacht club. Our first stop for coffee and a cinnamon roll for Jill,. A well deserved boost for her sugar levels. Sat underneath a massive fig tree drinking coffee looking onto a lovely bay that looked back towards the city. The open deck of the yacht club restaurant, absolutely packed with Saturday morning locals having brunch, catching up with friends, reading the weekend news, or just enjoying the tranquility of the scene.
Crinkly weather beaten yachtsman were preparing their old traditional wooden clinker yachts ready for their days sailing. A majestic sight religiously performed each weekend from all accounts.
We pass through various neighbourhoods, differing styles, mostly Victorian. Modern houses, shoehorned in between the traditional style.
Every now and then we would find ourselves at a viewpoint, before once again heading down through various green reserves, hugging the coast. Stopped at a caffe at one of ferry points for refreshments before concluding the final stage through Cremorne Reserve and Curraghbeena Park, ending up at Taranga Zoo Wharf.
Distant music and partying seemed to stay with us. Initially thought it was a small beach party, but we soon realised it was a flotilla of party boats, moored together near Sirus point. Amazing how the sound travels.
Ultimately we sighted the group of yachts and boats. Overflowing with young scantily clad people frolicking in the sun. Expected to see old rich Oligarchs, drooling over the young and beautiful. Fortunately, that wasn’t the case. Just young people out for some weekend fun.
Since the clamp down on Putins rich friends, most of his cronies have lost their yachts, being impounded by the west. Money being transferred onto Ukraine to fund their defence against the aggressor, Russia.
Second day of the coastal walk, this time without Jill and Chris because they’ve headed off to catch a plane back to Perth. Will miss them.
So it’s just the three of us, Judith, Denise our Canadian walking friend and myself.
Fortunately, as the QM2 had moved into its berth we didn’t have to worry about the tender journey. We just exit the ship in a very civilised manner and walk around until we find the appropriate ferry which takes us to Taranga zoo.
It’s a totally different walk today, instead of houses we were straight into nature, canopies of eucalyptus trees and brush. We walked on dusty paths, hugging the coast line with the odd diversion. First being to the Athol Hall, previously a hospital, now a restaurant/cafe.
A wedding was taking place in the gardens, and it wasn’t even 10am. Expect everyone keeps out of the midday sun.
Then onto Bradley‘s head and the amphitheatre, lighthouse and the HMASS Sydney memorial. But more importantly a great sighting of a big fat kookaburra.
Continued up and down on the undulating terrain whilst being treated to an array of unusual fauna and flora. The odd lizard or perhaps Iguana, butterflies and cockatoos.
Contrary to what l had been told, we did find an ice cream truck at one beach, but it was closed. Fortunately for us, we found a gorgeous little cafe at Chowder Bay. So a flat white and a very small cake to give us strength. Honestly it wasn’t too big. But it was delicious and full of energy. Felt so guilty. Denise said she wouldn’t have anything because it would spoil her lunch.
As it happened, it definitely didn’t spoil mine.
From here, replenished and rested we climbed up to George’s Head Battery before descending to Balmoral park.
To our delight, a cricket match was in progress. Just a pity we couldn’t stay and watch the game. Time was at a premium if we were to complete the walk.
Lunchtime, so we needed fish and chips. The area was teaming with weekend visitors, so we hunted out some locals who pointed us to the best place in town. A place called, Bottom of the harbour seafood.
Didn’t disappoint.
Watered and fed we set off once again.
Directions got a little sketchy and we walked along the promenade, but the track suddenly just disappeared. Where’s Chris when you need him.
Once again return to asking the locals. Found a couple and asked the question if they knew where the path was, and whether it was possible to get to Manly.
Materialised that it just ended at Balmoral Beach Club. But all was not lost. They were heading that way, so took us over into Manly in their car. What a lovely couple.
God what a hectic place, full of people enjoying the weekend. Swimming, surfing or just enjoying a Sunday stroll. So pleased to find a cliff top track that enabled us to find peace and quiet away from the maddening crowd. Managed to circle the headland through the old quarry swamp to the Barracks Precinct and then back by Collins Beach to the ferry terminal. What a fantastic day. A good 13 miles of walking. So pleased to crash out on board.
Kangaroo island was a bit of a mess or should l put it another way, it was a nonevent.
We shot down to the theatre to collect our ticket for the tender at 10:15 and sat there, and kept sitting there. But after about an hour they called three sets of numbers to head down to the tender. We were number 27 and the numbers were 17, 18 and 19 and then another hour and nothing so we decided it might be better to delay it until after lunch.
So we headed to the main desk to sort out our account, there was a problem with a credit card. Talking to some of the staff on the desk whose first language isn’t English is trying. Especially on complicated matters. We had two accounts with different credit cards. We wanted to have mine as the lead account, but use Judith’s Revolute card, as it enabled us to pay in any currency we had lodged.
Which eventually we did, but not until the credit controller came out to explain to the purser how it should be done.
Whilst there, we overheard that all the tenders had been suspended because of bad weather. The seas we’re getting too choppy and the wind was blowing a gale.
Denise who left early in the morning told us afterwards, that her tender nearly flipped. The side windows were submerged. People were screaming through fright. Water was pouring in from the open drivers hatch.
Back on board, just as we were going in for lunch the Captain announced the restarting, but only for those on a tour.
Then whilst eating lunch the captain came back on to say they had cancelled all tendering for the day, it was just getting too unsafe.
Spoke to Denise when she eventually got back from her tour she had a wonderful time tasting all the different alcoholic drinks and the various ice creams and everything else, but she then told me that her journey back on the tender was absolutely horrendous, she thought the whole boat was going to turn upside down. It was only the alcohol from the various tastings that numbed her senses that got her through it.
A shame. Never mind, another time.
At least it’s counted as a missed port, so we should be able to claim on our insurance. Another £300 to add to the future cruise pot.
Just read this book, amazing story about
a small girl abandoned by her family in
boon docks. Her story of living through
adversity, being called swamp scum. And
how she manages and grows into a
women.
Fantastic. There is also a murder. But
that's nothing compared to the child's
struggle and life entwined with the fabric
of the natural world around her. Not a dry
eye in the house.
Truly magnificent.
Adelaide, our new favourite place in South Australia. Small enough to enjoy with plenty of greenery to soften the architecture in the centre.
We took the train to Adelaide, a 40 minutes Journey, arriving in a wonderful old station. So clean and inviting. They had been thoughtful enough to put extra staff on duty to ease our passage through the system. Showing us how to manipulate the barriers, buy tickets, point us towards the facilities.
Brilliant little food kiosks lined the walkways. One with doughnuts the size of dinner plates. God almighty. Tempting, but even l couldn’t manage a whole one. Need four more sweet toothed friends to help me out.
Exit the station at the rear and crossed the river past the Oval cricket ground and walked along the towpath.
The trees, the smell of eucalyptus, giant trees giving shade. Its lovely and warm but not sticky, very pleasant to walk in. Notice a sign saying beware of the flying foxes, do not touch. So heads back, we’re looking up into the trees to see if we can find any sign of these nocturnal bats. The name says it all. None to be spotted.
So peaceful it’s not busy at all, it’s just the two of us walking along, no traffic noise, just so delightful.
Could quite easily live here.
See Gullahs but then again they could be cockatoos. After further inspection, confirm that they are cockatoos, they’re white there’s no pink on them.
The next tree is also full of white birds, but are they parrots or cockatoo. The quick answer is l don’t know. But they are clinging onto the leaves looking down at us. And making a bloody noise, sounds as if they’re laughing at us, and any minute now we’re gonna get shat on, so we don’t dawdle.
It’s a wonderful city ringed with a wide protective green belt, making it possible to actually walk all the way round without going into the built up centre whatsoever.
As we walk along the river underneath a fantastic canopy of leaves, we encounter Victorian bridges, similar to those so prevalent in Scotland. It wouldn’t surprise me if they hadn’t been built in Scotland and shipped out.
Everywhere is so green and pristine and the architecture is a mixture of old and new, many with wonderful corrugated steel roofs, balconies covered with beautifully decorated moulded corrugated iron with artistic fretwork along the front.
As we walk along the river Torrens, we notice two giraffes that pop their heads over the fence and we realise after checking the map that we’re across from the Adelaide zoo.
We continue along the path heading towards the botanical Gardens. A good walk, quite unexpected, the greenery, the wildlife, the smell, the plants. Absolutely truly amazing. The heady smell of eucalyptus, no wonder those little bears get high on it.
We get to the entrance to the park only to find a large sign informing us of the closure of the botanical park. Under refurbishment.
Disappointed, but not a problem, we just return on the opposite bank.
Stopped for a toasty and coffee to refuel. Then off again. Immediately have a flyby of two little green and red lorikeets, first viewing on this trip to Australia. You used to see hundreds.
Watch the school children practicing their 8 and single sculls boat racing, along the river, a majestic sight.
Then at the next bend we come across hordes of Dragonflies, all manner of colours and sizes but all on the enormous side. Then a Cockatoo and ibis hopping from tree to tree. Nature, a wonderful thing.
Eventually travel past the golf course, heading out of the Tainmuntilla Park named after mistletoe, back through the railway concourse and into a different world. One full of people. The real world of commerce and life, moving at a frenetic pace.
Visited the art gallery before crossing over into the shopping street.
Bumped into Steve and Jean who told us about the special ice cream from McDonald’s. A cornet wafer with lovely whipped vanilla ice cream and 99 chocolate stick shoved into it, all for $1.
We just couldn’t resist.
Another day draws to an end.
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