After so long away it’s great to put our feet back onto solid ground in old Blighty

 

After over 100 days at Sea, it seems strange to come ashore in the UK. Nothing seems to have changed, rain clouds forming, political unrest, strikes, volumes of traffic on the roads. An island overloaded with people it’s about to sink.

Starting to sound like my father. 

But it’s good to be back. Although the the return back to Scotland is on hold. Meeting up with Jill and Chris from Australia. Strange to think that it was only a month back that they were with us on the QM2 experiencing the highlights of the Singapore to Australia leg.

We head out to collect the pair with our Canadian buddy Denise. She’s joining us for a walk, and we’ll get her back to the ship later this evening in preparation for her return journey to New York.

But as they say, well made plans don’t always come to fruition. The weather forecast changed to stormy with persistent rain. So diverted to Winchester for a city walk. Once again this was turned upside down when we received a message that the QM2s fault had turned into a major catastrophe. The cruise to NY had been cancelled. Everyone joining the ship had been told it wasn’t sailing, and those on board  were eventually repatriated. Yet that information didn’t materialise until days later. What a nightmare for all concerned.

Nevertheless, we had a great day out, and even Denise, with all the uncertainty hanging over her seemed to enjoy the historical city, sightseeing, eating, drinking and of course buying those odd typically British bits to take back to the family. Sweets, shortbread biscuits, yet unfortunately not the mint gravy that her mum craved for. Seems it’s out of production. 

Alfred, King 871 - 899

He created fortified centres of which Winchester was its capital. From what we read, he encouraged learning and the monestic life and laid the formation of a single kingdom.

Reception committee didn’t seem too friendly

Heading out for morning refreshments. Seems that a few wanted coffee and cake

What a coffee shop, tremendous choice. All yummy

Bumped into actors playing Colonel Blimp. Laying in wait for people on a organised  mystery tour with hidden clues along the way. Seemed great fun.

After being warned of the QM2 cancellation, Facebook went mad with speculation. Eventually Cunard sent out their own factual communication.

After leaving Chris and Jill, which was difficult and sad, we headed home. It was a pity they couldn't stay longer and join us back in Innellan. Can never have enough time with the pair. 

As per usual, our neighbours tell us how wonderful the weather has been since we have been away. The image of overgrown weeds in the garden perhaps shows that there was enough rain to encourage growth. 

On entering our home and the abundant overflowing mail scattered across the floor, the house was unexpectedly warm. After virtually six months of everything turned off, would have imagined returning to a freezing space. Fortunately it’s the effect of heat gain through the south facing amass of glazing. Very pleasant.

 

Wake up and spend a day unpacking and putting everything either in wardrobes or draws, yet most into big piles ready for the wash. As per normal l disappear as quickly as possible, leaving Judith to the unenviable job of sorting everything out. Escaping into the garden. A hectic yet satisfying job of weeding. The first day was spent on my knees crawling across the gravelled areas extracting the abundant invasion of various weeds. Considering the ground was covered in a membrane to eliminate this it seems to have been a wasted expense and effort. I roam seeking out those dastardly, yet attractive threads of creeping buttercup. The devilish and invasive Mares Tails, the odd bit of sticky Willie and of course red robin, otherwise known as Herb Robert. 

It’s amazing the number of trug loads that l trundled down to the composting bays. Yet to me, these are an area of just joy. The fruits of a seasons hard work lies before my eyes. A dark rich mix of compost to enliven the earth. Such a sad soul. 

The Mares Tails are treated differently. They are placed in the sun to dry out, after which they are binned. The invasive marauding weed is so difficult to obliterate. In the passed l have tried all manner of tricks to stop its root system spread. I’ve dug it up, painstakingly following the roots down. Yet not easy once all around becomes full of mature plants. I have used a mixture of wallpaper paste made with glycophate and painted it on the weed. Quite effective, yet so time consuming. Now l just pull out on a daily basis and hope it weakens it enough to stem the flow. But it’s a devil, it even has the robustness to push through inches of tarmac on our drive. 

Moving on, away from such negativities.

An away day,  out to Port of Menteith, nicks restaurant, that’s the famous chef Nick Nairn, TV personality and aging chef. Nearly as old as me. 

Off to try the tasting menu, a special we purchased from the Glasgow Itison.

AMUSE BOUCHE

Garden pea veloute, curry royale, toasted hazelnuts 

TARTARE

Beef tartare, smoked emulsion, pickled wild garlic, sourdough cracker

FISH

Nick's original cured smoked salmon, pikelets, sour cream, Keta caviar

MEAT

Scotch lamb rump, crispy shoulder, Denhead farm asparagus, crushed Jersey royals, lamb sauce

DESSERT

Raspberry soufflé, white chocolate ice cream, crumble

Superb food served by a friendly bunch of young service staff in a rather bland restaurant that was freezing cold. Explained to us in the preliminary chat that his heating bill was astronomical - too much information.

Then off to sterling, staying in the Premier Inn for two nights, excuse to visit the cinema (john Broadbent in The unlikely pilgrimage of Harold Fry) and get a  couple of good walks in including at long last a walk up to the top of the hill to see the Wallace Monument.

The film was good, yet not a patch on the original book. Still trying to find his other film , The Duke. Kept missing it when it was shown on the ship.

Beef tartare with sourdough cracker. Will try to make the cracker with my leftover sourdough mother. Great idea.

The raspberry soufflé. Excellent, especially when you understand that we are not pudding people. Even Judith managed to eat it all.

Pleasant nights sleep at the Premier inn, nothing unusual to be honest. Not normally disappointed. 

Head out fairly early whilst the sun is out for our walk up the hill to the Wallace Monument. Although, Sod’s Law, within minutes the heavens open. Good job we have our umbrellas, our new purchase whilst on the QM2. Best deal of the whole cruise. They were selling them off for £7. Less our discount. Unbelievable.

As we head along the river, the rain stops and the sun comes out. Then it gets too hot. Never satisfied. Well we are British.

Follow the meandering River Forth, past the railway station and on through a housing estate to the Cooperage Quay. The water level is low. Must be a tidal river. You don’t realise how close you are to Glasgow.

At the foot bridge we are amazed at the sight of a parakeet in a tree. Then realise a person has it on a lead. Never seen anything like it. Well that is other than the local chap near us who takes his Ferret for a walk on a lead. Takes all sorts.

Cross over into a mixture of bungalows and ancient attractive house. The most striking being the old ferry house. 

Divert to see the old remains of the Cambuskenneth Abbey. Only the tower remains. It’s a lovely peaceful and calming place, predominantly used for dog walking these days.

Follow the river until we start the climb towards the Wallace Monument.

We are the only ones on the track, it’s serene and peaceful, with great views over towards the castle, that is until we reach the top when we hit a couple of busloads of people who have been shipped in from the car park below.

After a swift look round we retrace our steps back into our solitude. A blue haze of bluebells carpets the hillside. Gorgeous.

The following day, we walked the Stirling castle circuit, taking in the Gowan Hill Heritage Trail, including the beheading stone with views back over towards the Wallace Monument, our previous days walk.

Had a late lunch at Wetherspoons, so busy had to share a table with a very colourful local. Great craic until he downed his 10th pint. Fortunately kept himself busy betting on his smart phone. 

He was telling us that he came into Stirling three times a week from is little village up the line, for lunch and a few drinks. Explained that he found this controlled his drinking. At his local he would be there from lunch till throwing out time when he would drift home worse for wear. Since his wife left him he didn’t have anything to keep him in doors. He looked around 80, yet he was just 65. Such a shame.

King Charles IlI and Queen Camilla were crowned on Saturday in a royal ceremony at Westminster Abbey.

It's the first U.K. coronation in 70 years. King Charles III, 74, ascended the throne after his mother, the marvellous Queen Elizabeth II, who died in September.

King Charles IlI is the 40th British monarch to be crowed at Westminster Abbey.

The coronation ceremony and festivities include traditions that have been in place for more than 1,000 years.

9.000 servicemen and women from across the Armed Forces were deployed for the coronation, with 7,000 of these performing ceremonial roles.

Mounted Police from Canada lead the way

Fantastic scene. All the military lined up in the garden of Buckingham Palace to raise their hats in a United hip hip hurray in solute to their new sovereign. 

The rain didn’t stop the red arrows display team

Crowds on the Mall, heading towards Buckingham Palace to see the new king

We are so good at pageantry 

You have to hand it to the French. They do get their priorities right.

Not so little weevil taking shelter from the rain in my newly built greenhouse come shed

Manage to get out with my mate Martin to try out the fishing on Loch Tarsan.

It was bloody cold, not the best conditions for fly fishing for trout. Needs to warm up a little. Nevertheless, good to test out the electric outboard motor and find out how to collect the boats.

Another excuse to visit Glasgow. Do we need an excuse one asks.

Sunday lunch at the Crowne Plaza. Another special Itison deal.

Were not expecting great things considering the price, but it was absolutely gorgeous. Would go again.

Main reason for the visit was to view the latest Guardians of the Galaxy movie.Vol3

Brilliant, yet very dark.

Once again stayed at another Premier Inn by the side of the Clyde. Watched the sun set as we walked back from the city centre. 

Following day had a super and surprising walk along the canal from Maryhill to the centre of Glasgow.

Such tranquility considering it dissects the city. Amazing when you consider the engineering feats to make it possible through such a highly populated area. Linking the highly industrialised Clyde with Edinburgh.

The local waterway’s  and council seem to have been doing a lot of work in and around the canal, with plenty of walks and nature trails.

From the towpath you can see the University buildings in the distance

Houseboat cobbled from an old ships lifeboat.

Eventually arrive in the centre of Glasgow, just at the back of the bus station. The old warehouses have been converted into smart flats. Prices are not too expensive. If it wasn’t for the new Scottish letting rules, would have been interested in investing in a buy to let. Or perhaps a summer retreat in the city.

Back once again to Glasgow to visit the Home Builders Show at the exhibition centre down by the Clyde. Still have an inkling to build another property. She thinks I’m crazy.

Good excuse for a pint of Brewdog IPA and gammon and chips. Down to earth grub.

Disappeared with the kayaking club for a weekend camping trip to Castle Carrick.

Started on the Saturday morning. Force 4 gusting 6. Fortunately it materialised not to be as bad as we headed into the wind. Although the waves were far more aggressive than l had experienced previously.

As we headed from Ardentinny we passed the submarine base and the trident missile storage facility on Loch Long before turning through rough swells into Loch Goil a white tailed sea eagle sailed overhead.

This took my mind off the scary bits for a while.

After lunch headed back out along the sea Loch, passed the seal colony. One eager male was showing off to all the girls, diving into the depths and then suddenly launching himself into the air. More like a dolphin than a seal.

Passed the submarine sounding range that assesses the noise signature of navy vessels. Understand that the whole Loch is closed whilst testing takes place. You don’t want the chugging of a little fishing boat or the family from hell thrashing the gut out of a rib whilst trying to record a submarine on silent running mode.

Returned to set up the tent, have a few drinks and cooked dinner. After a pleasant evening, imbibing, fell into bed, well the sleeping bag. Good job l had brought my five season bag, it was bloody cold. 

Up early and a few reviving coffees before showering and breakfast. Camping gets you back to nature, yet midge nets aren’t the height of fashion. Yet far better than the alternative. A black mist of ferocious biting insects.

Four of us headed out of Loch Goil before striking out towards Arrochar on Loch Long, with views of the new aircraft carrier in front of us being re provisioned.  Stopped for lunch at a little bothie, Mark Cottage for lunch. Retracing our path and heading home. Plenty of further sightings of porpoises, dolphins and seals, along with the screeching of the oyster catchers, as we headed back to Ardentinny. 

Back to dry land and tapped my new beer. Delicious, although rather frothy at first, but it soon settled down. Yet it was strong, real falling over water. Two was plenty. In fact perhaps, one would have been enough.

Garden coming on well now that we have got on top of the weeding for awhile. 

Had our first Airbnb guests in. Enjoying the craic with them. Yet keeping the numbers to a manageable level to allow us plenty of time to ourselves. Like to get out and about at least two days a week. That’s the beauty with Airbnb, you are in total control of your diary.

Breakfast set up. Continental breakfast with scotch Pancakes, home made sourdough toast and preserves.

Most people like my soaked chia seeds with blueberry coulis, fresh blueberries and yoghurt.

Spend hours trying to see why my windscreen wiper washes had stopped working. Poked wires into the nozzle, changed the fluid, kicked the tyre. Nothing.  Problem with new cars is that they are not user friendly for home repairs. Couldn’t even find the pipe runs, never mind the pump. 

So booked into my local garage. Dropped off at 7am and they called to say it was ready for collection at 4.30 by a sheepish owner. Seems the problem wasn’t the pipes or pump, it was the nozzles themselves. Unfortunately on removing the housing to get to said nozzles, they cracked the windscreen. Advised that parts and replacement screen would take seven days to get. Not a problem. As long as it doesn’t rain and the crack doesn’t get worse or fall out.

Another couple of nights away, and it isn’t at a Premier Inn this time. We are staying at the Riverside Lodge just located outside of Irvine. 

It’s an early start, and we have already changed from shorts to long trousers and a sweater. Now in the car we are starting to cook. 

The crack on the windscreen seems to be spreading towards the centre of the visible area which seems to be quite critical. We look at each other for verification that it’s safe to drive. The impetus to have an away day or two outweighed any idea of caution. Good job its to be replaced on Friday. The summer heat seems to be contributing to the problem, everything crossed in the hope it doesn’t suddenly disintegrate in front of our eyes.

Drive over on the early ferry and amazed at the amount of traffic heading to the mainland.

At one point, thought we were not going to get on board, to be left on the quayside. Fortunately, they squeezed us and another three cars on. Amazed how they shoehorn the vehicles into the available space. Not surprising that the Dunoon to Gourock service is the most profitable ferry service in Scotland. It’s also the only independent ferry company in Scotland with up to 5 ferries vying the 20 minute journey between Argyll and Bute and the mainland in Renfrewshire. Last year they made £3million profit.

Unlike the crippled ferry company, Calmac who are embroiled in a fiasco with Ferguson Marine which is costing the taxpayer 500 million pounds to complete two ferries that are presently over six years overdue. Compared with Western Ferries that had their ferries commissioned by Cammell Laird in Birkenhead at a cost of around 4 million a piece with capacity for 40 cars and over 200 passengers. 

Now the SNP have instructed a Turkish company to build four new ferries for 130 million. Beggars belief.

On the way down did all the shopping at the cut priced stores. Home bargains and Excess Stock, for all those things that we desperately need. Brooms, we are so heavy handed that we keep breaking the handles. We have about six now, all 2ft long. Great for the shorter person. Judith also needs new flower pots. The colour scheme has changed on the top deck, so everything is changing. Hopefully black will stay in vogue for a few years. For me it was quite simple, white chalk board markers. Great price, but unfortunately once home found they didn’t work. They were all dry. Yet l did manage to find shed door hinges. They did work, but aren’t the prettiest. When l opened them up, the angles weren’t quite straight and the screw heads disintegrated as l tried to screw them in. Price isn’t everything.

Yet it’s still fun to think you have found a deal.

Up early and into the restaurant for a hearty breakfast. And it was definitely that. Just the thing to give you the energy for a long walk in warming weather.

Start the 14 mile walk from the rear of the hotel by the side of Annick Water. A circular walk called the Irvine and Kilwinning Newtown Trail. 

A fascinating mix of walk from towpath, forest, open fields and country estate. Walking on well maintained paths, skirting social housing and a network of road systems, yet at times in the middle of nowhere, in silent contemplation.

It’s so uplifting, out in the fresh air, listening to the various bird songs, smelling freshly cut grass and the heady aroma of wild honeysuckle and all manner of wild roses.

every bend, foothill and unassuming river course contains hidden treasures, surprising legends, enthralling vistas and untold stories. Eglinton park is ahead, the castle ruins, tournament bridge, standing stones, but more importantly a coffee shop. Just a pity that they are only serving instant coffee. The machine has broken down. Good job we have a double dark chocolate cookie to make amends for the lack of flavour in the cup.

Onwards we walked, nature filled path turns into a quiet backroad where three majestic deer stand silently watching our every move. For what seemed like an eternity – until the spell is broken by a rusty pre war dark green Land Rover with a clanking sheep-crammed trailer bounces down the lane and the animals flee like lightning.

After several tight  turns around the meandering river we cross a footbridge, nearly mowed down by a speeding cyclist. Our first encounter, surprisingly so when you consider the that it’s part of the Sustrans cycle route through Scotland. Judith points out two massive trout head to tail, chasing around in ever decreasing circles.

Love embracing the wide open spaces and the nature on our doorstep, know matter we we are living.

In summer, there are berries to be picked, mountain hikes and country walks to go on. Not to mentioning the re wilding of our own woodland to encourage more nature into our garden.

Time spent out and about improves my calmness. Put it another way, it removes or at least softens my grumpiness brought on by the depressing news headlines proporting the end of civilisation as we know it. 

Nature has always been my ultimate saviour in times of darkness.

We are so fortunate in Britain, we are blessed with stunning scenery - from woodlands to coasts, moors and hills. 

When I was growing up in Old Sawley at the convergence of the River Trent, Derwent and River Soar, between three industrial Cities of Derby, Nottingham and Leicester everyone went walking, from we tots to Old curmudgeons at weekends. Well, back then cars were a rarity.

As a child, most of our free time was spent in the fields, exploring, climbing trees, fishing, building hideaways. Out in the open discovering the nature around us. 

In the early 50s, life was simpler, yet not easy. Toilets were in the yard and torn newspaper on a nail sufficed for toilet tissue. Once a week the zinc bath was brought into the lounge in front of the fire, filled from a gas boiler using a bucket. Families had to survive hard winters, single glazing, no insulation or central heating, one fire to warm the whole house. In the morning you scraped the ice off the inside of the window to see out.

Food was scarce, but people grew their own vegetables, kept chickens for eggs and meat. Most people didn’t possess a fridge, they had a scullery instead, so most foods were fresh. 

It encouraged people to be self-sufficient with an independent spirit. There wasn’t such a thing as a hand outs. Communities helped one another, and most people new how to do basic things such as collecting plants, how to identify edible mushrooms  or when and where to forage for berries or fruits for bottling or turning into jams or chutney’s. Catching the odd rabbit or pheasant for the pot was common place.

Fortunately people don't need to make things from scratch any more, yet most people get satisfaction from creating something by hand.

In an age of takeaways and processed food, there is something to be said for learning basic cooking skills, baking bread, f brewing your own beer, knocking up a summer pudding using foraged fruit.

It’s great fun, and there are plenty of opportunities for finding food in the wild. Gathering elderflowers to make cordial or champagne. Be careful with the latter. My IKEA corked bottles exploded under the stairs and it was a devil to clean. I now use plastic bottles. You can see when the pressure  builds and it’s quite easy to unscrew the cap to release the gas.yet serving champagne from a plastic cordial bottle doesn’t quite hit the sophistication spot.

For me, to immerse yourself in the outdoors, watching, listening and smelling nature is a blessing. Love investigating cities, visiting art galleries and museums, but the natural world enlivens the spirits.

If you love foraging, this is the definitive guide to eating and drinking from your findings.

Other books for inspiration on cold and wet days when getting out isn’t that easy. Recommend the Clarissa Dickson Wright books, A greener life,  Clarissa and the Countryman and the follow up Clarissa and the Countryman Sally Forth. Takes you back to more relaxing simpler time.

Another brew, this time a fresh fruity IPA

We need more of these signs.

Watch this it’s unbelievable-An amazing clip - a brief history of cinema. 

https://twitter.com/michaelwarbur17/status/1651643526235451392?s=61&t=-gX9gCQekQDeOrqrmah-ZQ

Another day trip.Footpassenger ferry to Gourock station. Bus to Largs, then ferry over to Great Cumbrae Island. Then another bus to Millport, the mai town, perhaps the only town on the island.

Leaving Dunoon on a glorious day, sun shining, slight breeze

Another ferry, this time from the mainland to Cumbrae

Only takes around 15 minutes, and the ferry is heaving.

Looking south from Millport looking at Little Cumbrae

From here we walk down the spine of the island, eventually heading to the West with views over to Bute and Arran.

Most of the people are in cars, so we have total peace and isolation as we meander a through the wild grasses

Always interesting to read the inscriptions on the old headstones

Wild lilies 

Orchids popping up all over the place

Bute in the foreground and the Isle of Arran behind 

The island is a real paradise for nature lovers, the trails and tracks are overflowing with the heady fragrance from wild roses, honeysuckle and an abundance of elderflowers.

We stop off at the safe for a coffee and a snack before returning to Millport by the coastal path. 

Pop into the store and quench our thirst on some flavoured water before heading on the central path which will eventually get us back to the ferry.

Hear the sound of a curlew and then see him fly across the wetlands then hovering nearby. He is beautiful with a long slightly bent beak. Then again it could be a snipe. After another good look, it’s definitely a curlew. 

There must be a nest nearby because both the male and female are swooping down at us to warn us off. 

Manage to get back just in time as the ferry disgorges the next influx of visitors to the island. We join the crowded line and await the opportunity to board. Fortunately there’s still plenty of room for foot passengers, but half a dozen vehicles are left to await the return.

Dinner and a drink in Largs before heading back home. What a wonderful day out.