move on from Fort William

Day 4

Awoke fairly early, but the rain was thundering against the roof of the van, so the trip down to the loch was put on hold. Instead we ate early, packed the van and headed West in the rain towards Arisaig. There was a walk we wanted to do that was fairly low level, which we hoped would give us some protection from the winds and rain. It was the Callop to Glenfinnan monument route through the forestry commissions land. Kept retracing our track to find the so called marked car park, but eventually found that it was an unmarked track. No signage. The national trust must have removed them to ensure that tourists had to stop at their pay and display car park. Cynical Parker. Its more likely that the Forestry Commission removed it to stop free overnight camping.

Anyway we did get drenched.

Nevertheless the broad walk was excellent and the sideshoots leading to various lookouts were amazing. The views were rather hindered by the low cloud and incessant down pouring of the wet stuff, but it was still a great walk.

After lunch we headed on to our next nights stay in Arisaig. The site wasn’t really what we expected, in fact a real dumping ground, with views of old fashioned static caravans painted in the prerequisite washed out green, but we did see a glorious stag strutting around amongst the low lying bogs. Anyway, fortunately for us no one was in, so we made a quick retreat to find another site. There are dozens in this area, yet to be honest, most are rather uninspiring. One did catch our eye, with big clean facilities, but the circular positioning of the motor homes and caravans looked too much like the wild west, circling round prior to the red Indian attack.

Found a gorgeous site close to the beach at Camusdarach, with excellent facilities, secluded spots and free Wifi, albeit slow. Also found out that it was the location for the making of Local Hero, which isn’t surprising when you experience the beauty of the coast. It even had the old red telephone box in which the lead kept pumping coins to enable him to phone his boss played by Burt Lancaster in the USA.

Went for another walk along the beach and through the sand dunes, this time in the sun , well until the occasional showers, turned into a full-blown gale. Most of our cloths were now completely soaked, but hopefully by tomorrow morning they will have dried out. A full day of sun is expected!!!!!!!!!

Parker getting slightly damp on the broad walk through the bog

Untouched virgin sand on the beach

Day5

The sun did come out and stayed out all day.

Off to Arisaig and the start of our seven mile walk along an old drovers track to a now deserted township.

The walk along the coast was superb. At long last we saw the islands of Skye, Rum and Eigg, before turning inland towards Camas Ghaoideil along a secluded yet muddy track through a small Glen and passed a Loch. Desolate place, one wonders why anyone would choose such isolation, perhaps it was a good fishing area, the ground fertile, good supply of running water and a sheltered location, who knows. The area is now virtually barren, other than the odd shepherds hut and the various flotsam and jetsam that gets blown ashore.

The walk back was improved by the skirting of the boggy track, and the odd bull which decided to hog the centre of the track.

Home to the campervan for lunch and a brew before heading off for some fishing and a six mile walk along the coast. The tide was on its way in, so we spent more time fishing, or should l say, casting a spinner into the sea. From all accounts the mackerel where in, but l didn’t find them. It was good fun, hopping from rock to rock, getting sprayed by the sea. Made a change from getting sprayed by rain.

Dinner, then out again fishing. This time with the beach caster and feathers. After an hour, still nothing so returned for another beer, feet up and relax.

Managed to find a parking space in Arisaig before heading off on our walk

The hidden beach below the now abandoned settlement 

 

Day 6

More fishing first thing Friday morning, but sadly the fish were not around. Or should l say, my method for catching them was not appropriate. Need some bait.

Breakfast, then into Mallaig for a short three mile walk over the hills. Then into the coop to buy food for dinner. Hunted out a fishing tackle shop for bait, but nothing. So went to the fresh sea food shops on the quay. Guess what, they didn’t have anything either. Bloody hell. So gave up.

We headed south to Morar and parked up. Had a custard tart for a treat and set off along Loch Morar. Fortunately, the rain was keeping at bay. In fact the sun was trying its hardest to peak through. The nine mile return journey was superb, with different views of the loch and mountains at every bend or hillock enroute.

One down side was the disappearance of the sun and the start of a full blown gale accompanied by rain, yet we were soon back to the van, returning for another treat. Doughnuts washed down with coffee.

Came across some really interesting designed houses on the drive back to the campsite. At long last it seems that the highlands are finding inspiring architects who are able to blend the houses into the craggy countryside.

Then another walk along the coast, just to get the last of the dry before the clouds once again come in and it starts raining.

 

Mallaig from the viewpoint

The best view of Mallaig

Busy commercial and domestic harbour

He should have gone to SpecSavers

Clouds are coming in over Loch Morar

Yes its started aagain

 

Day7

Its dry today, put the flags out, open the champagne. On the downside, it does forecast rain and the clouds are heading our way.

Pack the van and head south from Arisaig to the wilderness of the Ardnamurchan Peninsular . As the crow fly’s its not far away, but the roads are single track, up and down and snaking along the lochs, sea coast and contours of the volcanic mountains.

Headed off the Mallaig to Fort William road south along the banks of the sea Loch Ailort, no traffic, just wildlife. Turn off to Smirisary and the white sands beach. The road is very tight, only just wide enough for the van, but the route takes you down to beaches then it climbs through holiday homes, run down farms and derelict cottages. As we continue to drive further in land we wonder if we are going to find enough room to park and to turn round. We keep on, not seeing any other parking places or turning points, but we eventually find the parking space atop a hill. And there is room. Was worth keeping our fingers crossed.

Then a short walk up over a hillock and down to a rugged coast that used to be a small township that was only reached by boat or foot. As you could imagine, it eventually went into decline with the houses falling into ruins. Yet today, locals have resurrected some of the cottages and turned them into holiday homes. You have to like your own company and be prepared to carry everything in and out.

The route is muddy, slippery, but overhead its dry. The views from the top are magnificent, and the coast line was fantastic. Downside was that we didn’t see any sea eagles and it did start to rain.

Back to the van and off again, retracing our drive up the mountain until we reach the main road, this time heading further into the wilderness, along more single tracks, even more fantastic scenery.  Masses of deer, raptors, geese and the odd car and the occasional castle ruin. We headed off down another single track that followed the river Shiel into Loch Moidart and the ruined castle Tioram, perched on a rock in the centre of the loch with only a tidal path to get to it. The forestry commission had restored a hairy path that hugs the side of the mountain, so we felt brave and headed off. It was tremendous, although the wind was so strong in places and path was so precipitous we did have some scary moments. New l should have packed the rope.

Did about a mile before we turned back, a couple of miles in total, but the ups and downs must have doubled the total walk.

Managed to get back in time to cross over to look at the castle, but we didn’t stay long as the clouds hard become black and the rain had already started.

Into the van, and then even more driving around the peninsular, 30 miles on single track roads. I keep saying it, but the views were amazing. More deer, plenty of raptors, and the mountains, so full of colour. Past the Glenborrowdale Castle and private estate, magnificent. Then through areas of just pure wilderness, the road climbs up into the clouds with views reminiscent of Hawaii without the sun. White sea horses in the lochs show how strong the wind has become, belts of rain come and go, but it is awe inspiring. More deer, highland cattle, a Montague Harrier, but no big stags as yet, nor an eagle.

We then drop down into Kilchoan, a real two horse town. The ferry leaves from here to Tobermoray in Mull. Not that we are intending to go across.

Eventually find this minute campervan site, only space for four vans. It materialises that there are only two tonight. The weather is horrendous, the winds are so strong and the rain is like stair rods, bouncing of the cab, its cold and in Judith’s words, its bloody miserable.

We batten down the hatches and settle for a good DVD and dinner and alchol. Lots of it.

some of the refurbished crofts that have been turned into self catering houses. Guests have to carry everything in from the car park which lies approximately a mile away

Gorgeous views out to sea on the Ardnamurchan peninsular

Loch Moidart and the ruined castle Tioram

Hairy cliff face path that hugs the granite face

Rolling volcanic landscape similar to Hawaii, without the climate

 

Day 8

What can l say. The winds are bashing us about, the rain is incessant, we cant get out of the van its so bad. There isn’t any point in driving anywhere because visibility is non existent.

It’s a fasting day so we cant even head out for a long lunch somewhere, if there is anywhere in the vicinity.

Manage to watch the football, listen to the archers followed by the marathon.

Still no changed. We agree, in future we don’t book ahead, and we only go away when we know the weather is half reasonable.

Sure that Judith would sell the van today if there was a buyer at hand.

Hopefully the afternoon will improve.

In fact the sun did come for long enough for us to get out and walk down to the harbour. Then it rained, then the hail came, but fortunately there was a waiting room that enabled us to hide out of the worst. Within 10 minutes we managed to get back out and walked rather quickly back to the van. The warmth. Only another two hours to wait for our fasting dinner.

30 minutes without rain on the Ardnamurchan peninsular, looking out from Kilchoan

One mad sailor out in the gales in the Sound of Mull

Manage to get down to the ferry port as the heavens open and the hail thunders down.Fortunately we are able to duck into the waiting room until it passes

You can just about see the hail

Both are chewing the cud whilst the hail and rain falls

 

Day 9 Kilchoan- Ardnamurchan

Another day, and what a change. The skies are blue and the sun is up early. What a difference a day makes.

Its truly amazing how the weather influences your mood.

We are up early to take advantage and shoot off through the village and head towards the lighthouse positioned the furthest west on mainland Britain. The drive was along single track roads, some rather bumpy to say the least. To get to the lighthouse point you have to traverse the cliff, but they use a traffic light system to save blockages of traffic. You meander round bends with an ancient stonewall to protect you from the shear drop, but then you have to manoeuvre in between two large stone gateposts, which only gave us 3inches spare on both sides, and that was with the mirrors bent flat. They didn’t mention this before you started the 200m run up to the lighthouse. Would have been quite difficult to reverse all the way down the twisting cliff track.

Nevertheless, we managed to see the lighthouse and the exhibition centre. Realistically its only another lighthouse designed by Stephenson, but the exhibition centre was excellent, giving the geological basis of the region along with its history. Very interesting when you consider that this part of Scotland had stronger links with the Scandinavians and England than it did with Scotland. Pity that individuals had felt it necessary to steal certain exhibits on display. Empty holes where once interesting objects should have been on display. Computer screens where blank as the controls had been damaged, such a pity. Need to get the cattle prod out and administer some sort of control over the unruly sh-ts. As Alan would say, take them out and shoot them. Rather extreme. But l know where he is coming from.

The views over to Mull, Eigg and Rum were starting to look amazing under the morning sun. Back in the van for the drive back down, then onto Portuairk( get your mouth round that). A glorious bay with a walk over the hills to Sanna Bay, a four mile return journey. A mixture of beach strolling, rock climbing and bog squelching.

After lunch we then walk another four miles up and through the old volcano. Reminds you of Hawaii, without the sun and balmy temperatures. The rock formations where fascinating and the views from the top were exhilarating.

Then we drove round to Sanna Point, looked at some very interesting new builds and walked over the cliffs before returning for dinner in our small four motor home site in Kilchoan.

 

friendly highland cow with a loose tongue

Beach of Sanna Bay

dramatic scenery on the western coast of the Ardnamurchan

lighthouse at the Point of Ardnamurchan

Parker heading to the summit of the volcano

looking down into the caldera of the volcano

One of the necessary cairns to manoeuvre yourself across the bogs to the sea cliffs at Sanna Point

Day ten

We depart Ardnamurchan Peninsula in the cool morning air with the sun starting to appear over the mountain tops.

Head out towards Strontian on the single track road, with deer in the valley, highland cattle mixing with the sheep on the hillsides and clouds enveloping the hill tops of Eigg and Rum in the distance. Initially it was fairly easy going, but as the time past by we started to encounter masses of oncoming traffic.

The coastal single track road to made passing difficult and it was slow going as you were never aware of what might be looming up on you round the next corner.

Had a break just after the magnificent Glenborrodale castle to buy a few memorabilia from the visitor centre. Unfortunateley it was not open until 10am, so we had to go without the had to have bargain.

The traffic started to come in waves, possibly due to the timing of the ferry disgorging at Corran.

Stopped at a hide to see sea lions and a multitude of birds on the edge of Loch Sunart. Missed out on the otters, someone had seen them earlier in the day, but the basking sea lions with odd more energetic youngster kept us amused. Back on the road trying to avoid the builders merchant lorries, the odd refuse lorry and umpteen cars shooting along at a most inappropriate speed for the conditions.

Had another break at Strontian, visiting the TIC (tourist Information centre) followed by a walk through the woodland and up to the lookout. Stretched the legs.

Then off again towards the ferry. Saw two birds fighting or mock playing in the sky with back drop of a big snow capped horseshoe ridge.

Then another large bird came in for some prey, possibly a buzzard, but it looked a little big for a buzzard. Then again they may just make them big round here.

Wanted to do a walk in Corran but impossible to find parking, will have to park on the mainland and ferry across as a foot passenger one of these days on a return visit.

The crossing only took 3 minutes, but it only cost £8 for the van, so cant complain.

It was then off down to Oban on a very busy road with lorries thundering along. Wanted to stop for a break, but we had nearly arrived in Oban before we came across a pleasant off road parking place.

Popped into Tesco and purchased food for the night, then it was off up in the hills to find the camp site. Must say that the camp site, Rose View was amazingly peaceful and up in the hills with views over to Mull and Kerrera. Well maintained , spotlessly clean and internet, albeit you had to go down to the office to get a good signal.

Eigg in the distance covered in cloud

The Island of Eigg in the distance

One stag and about fifty females. Not bad odds

one of the gorgeous bays on the southern side of the Ardnamurchan peninsular

Seals lazily sprawl out on the rocks to take advantage of the early morning sun

Horseshoe range with snow on the edges and a plethora of raptors

Ferry at Corran

The landing point for the ferry. Only a three minute crossing, but it saves nearly three hours of driving.

Day 11

Forecast was rain, so we headed down into Oban on foot, diverting to the Hebridian Island Cruise office for details on their itineraries, after which we headed up to the look out at Pulpit Hill. We spent the day looking around the sites and shops. It didn’t take long before we headed for lunch in the high street at the Oban fish shop. Had salt and black peppered squid as a starter, followed by stupendously fresh and well cooked haddock. No wonder Rick Stein said it was the best place to eat in Oban.

Then off to the port to get the prices and times for the ferries before returning up the hill to the site. After a short break we headed out over the hills to find the times of the local foot passenger ferry to Kerrara. Intend going over on Thursday morning if the weather is good. There is an interesting 7 mile walk round the hills and coast. Last boat back is 5pm, so we should be fine.

Harbour of Oban

Island of Kerrara which was too rough to get to

Judith working herself up for lunch

Oban Railway station

Lighthouse perhaps on the Island of Lismore

Oban Castle falling into disrepair

Gallanach ferry to Kerrar

Day 12

Last night the van rocked and rolled under the pounding from the gale force winds, whilst the roof took a bashing from hail stones. By 7am we awoke to rain and the wind had not subsided. According to the weather forecast it was going to brighten up, so we head for the ferry at 10am, only to return 30 minutes later having been battered to death by the incessant wind and rain. We decide to walk down to Oban and try out the Oban whisky tour, only to find that its fully booked for the next three days. Undaunted we spend time around the distilleries exhibition which was very interesting. But no whisky tasting.Another time.
Visit a few more exhibits, the odd shop, TIC and then take lunch before climbing the hill and cross the mountains on a rather circuitous route to the camp site. Oban was bombed out, so it was good to get back to the peace and quiet of our van.