The holiday in SCOTLAND CONTINUES

April 20, 2014

The holiday in SCOTLAND CONTINUES

Day 13

7am, fast day and the sun is up. Pure blue sky and its time to move south down to Lochgilpead, by the crinan conal.

Head to a modern interpretation of a fisherman’s village, a yachting mariner with a twist of Walt Disney theme style old. Not well organised or very convincing. Missed opportunity. Small lines of houses and one massive car park blocking the scenic view.

Then down another lane to a more sympathetic marina, with real houses, pubs and shops, the odd castle. More importantly, everything blends into the scenic splendour, AND THERE ISNT A MASSIVE CARPARK detracting from the location and obscuring the view.

The village ARDFERN leading down to Aird on Loch Craignish, was far more attractive and not in the least artificial, a real working environment with boat yard, pub, bistro. We continued for ever, or thats the way it felt until we couldn’t go any further. So much so that we had a real problem trying to turn round. Reversed for 200 metres and then manoeuvred a ten point turn. Nevertheless, the experience was well worth it. We passed old wrecks of boats, castles, hidden houses, old fashioned fishing cottages and believe it or not a motor home camp site that was being developed very sympathetically.

Next stop the historical area around Kilmarten in the ancient kingdom of Dalriada. Fascinating transition into 400AD. Never realised how important this part of Scotland was. I say Scotland, it had more links to Ireland, as it was the Irish Celts known as SCOTTI who founded it. This Glen that Kilmarten sits was inhabited by clever and quite wealthy individuals. So much so, that the community regaled and honoured them at death by building burial mounds that still stand today. Saying that there is so much more, with stone circles, rings, rock carvings and cairns. If you are passing its worth visiting the museum at Kilmartin , it also has a great shop and café.

Eventually we have to move on to our next camp site. The best yet, basically because of its position in Lochgilphead. The town is fascinating, old fashioned wide streets with an air of the past mixed with a sprinkling of quality shops.

Lochgilphead from across the Loch

Proof that the sun is actually shining as we shoot along another Loch to view the marina

The reflections of the hills is magnificent

A modern day marina mad to look like an old fishing village

Same village, but these peoples views look onto a massive carpark

A boat in need of some TLC

Stones in the grave yard of Kilmartin. It seems that the earlier obsession of stone carving in the 5th century was continued into the 13th and even later

One of the burial cairns in the Glen

You can see three in a line with the church on the hill to the right. CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO ENLARGE

A lone standing stone

Inside one of the cairns, the burial place of one of the Chiefs. Only a tooth remained when they excavated due to the high acidity of the ground.

Day 14

Up early and the sun is still shining. Just cant believe It. Where has the rain disappeared to. Looking at the weather forecast its hitting southern England. Its about time they experienced some of the rain we have been dumped with.

Off to go and buy Judith a new ring she found in an Art gallery situated in the pretty unspoilt town of Lochgilphead, after which we buy the Saturday mail before jumping into the van and heading along the Crinan Canal. Its always amazing to see yacht masts floating as if in midair amongst the trees. Glorious drive along the mainly single track road down to Crinan and the renowned Crinan hotel. Wonderful position, although it has seen better days on the out side, though the inside seemed to ooze charm. Staff were rather standoffish, with a superior air about them. If you need to ask the price you cant afford it. Demonstrated by the receptionist when l asked for a brochure, tariff sheet and to view one of their rooms. Initially thought it may be nice to spend two or three nights here, especially as its only about one and half hours drive away. Had read that they often do three nights for the price of three and the usual discounted price for DBB for two people per night is £395. They had a fairly flimsy brochure that didn’t have one photograph of the rooms, they didn’t have a tariff, you have to go online to see the prices and they didn’t have a room we could look at. They were not full, but she was not very cooperative. Perhaps they have enough past guests to fill the coffers, but l would always show off my bedrooms if they were anything special, which at this price you expect.

The dinner menu seemed rather old hat, but then again, their clients may prefer this type of food. Still think that they are missing a trick. They do have a small seafood bar menu, but they only have seating for about 20 people. The owners have been around for about 37 years, so they must be happy with the products return!!

Anyway, we walk down to the harbour, which is about one mile away, then off up into the hills through the forestry commissions tracks until we get to the old Dounie Castle.The castle or settlement goes back to 1000AD, and there are still signs of the rudimentary rooms and defences. What views, amazing , looking out to Jura and Scarba and one of the biggest and fiercest whirlpools in the world, Corryvrekhan, caused by an underwater mountain peak.

Had lunch whilst absorbing the view. Then it was back to the van and off for another walk, this time around the Loch Coille Baharr in the hope of seeing the recently reintroduced Beaver population. Wasn’t the right time of day, too late in the morning and too early in the evening. They tend to come out first light and at dusk. Nevertheless, we did se signs of their occupation. Hides, dams and trees being felled with their famous buckteeth.

After walking about 9 miles and climbing well over 1000 feet on a few occasions, it was refreshing to get back for a glass of wine and a BBQ.

Third floor bar in the Crinan Hotel, wonderful views, pity about the staff

The Crinan canal coming into the Atlantic, to be precise the Sound of Jura which leads to the Atlantic

Two old Puffas being restored

Looking out to Jura from Crinan harbour

Cold wind, but as we climb higher it get warmer, or is it down to the amount of energy to get up the mountain?

Taking a breather at the top in a 5th Century fort overlooking views that go on and on

The famous channel between Jura and Scarba, one of the largest and most dangerous whirl pool in the world

Signs of the beavers. This tree trunk was a foot in diameter

Day 15

A Sunday and a more relaxing day, although we still managed to climb through the forest, past a loch and up to another fort that is well over 1500 years old, with views over Kintyre and Arran. The climate was magnificent, another sunny warm day, but not too hot for walking. It was also great to be able to walk directly from the campsite. Added and extra couple of miles, but it was well worth it. Back for a late lunch and then off on this occasion along the footpath by the side of the Crinan canal, this time heading south to the entry point that feed off Loch Fyne. A rather strange under whelming place, with not a lot for the 40,000 boats that pass through it every year. Great walk, but disappointed that we couldn’t find anywhere to take refreshment at 4.30pm, either tea, coffee or a glass of wine or beer. So instead we watched a seal pop his head up in the calm waters of Loch Fyne , boats arriving to pass through on Monday, they don’t work on Sundays until after 23^rd April, and the mounds of wood that is awaiting shipping out to Glasgow, presumably l assume for paper manufacturing. Then its back along the towpath for a glass of wine and dinner.

Tomorrow we are packing up and heading off to Tarbert for a walk and look round before shooting over to the Atlantic coast for three nights.